Tried bringing a few post over from another forum but its just not letting me.
Sorry.
Here is a few photos of this weeks project.
Moved the Battery and winch controls up high in the front box.
Added that 21" Curved light bar, Winch control is on the outer edge of the front rack for easy use if I do get stuck.
Built a bracket to hold the montana 650t. Makes for a nice heads up display. LOL
Cut to small slits at the bottom for the straps on the Moose pouch. Keeps my cell phone and wallet in there. High and dry.
Added on of those USB charger things so I can run a cord from it to my cell phone inside the front pouch, behind the Montana.
Bought two ATV. 450 for the GF and the 570 for me.
Order a set of rip saws 25" for mine , they came in today, ran up town had them put on the 450. Will switch them over tomorrow so the rip saws end up on the 570 and my 25" tires end up on the 450. 450 had the 24s on it.
And all that adding to the to front rack does not change anything below the cover.
Wires come in the front top of the cover and run up under the basket so you don’t see them. All 4 of them.
Two from the winch, and of course the hot and ground for the bike.
Mounted my gun mounts to the outside. still have to add 4 L brackets but stuck it there so I could carry my Critter Getter.
Having fun dolling it up. Fender flairs go on along with the tires tomorrow.
Work in progress.
I have 2 batteries that have gone bad. My almost 5 year old battery on the 550 will only hold a charge for about 10 days then it goes down. The 18 month old battery on the 570 is about shot also. Went out yesterday to start the 570 and not enough juice to start it. I am going to put a good charge on it before throwing in the towel. I guess 2 new AGM’s will be on order.
For over 2 yrs I’ve been running a Super ATV 3" bracket lift with zero issues. Axles are holding up great. However, I’ve recently been experiencing CV boots that are splitting. It’s the exact same CV joint every time. The rear-left, inner boot. Epi boots just don’t have enough flex/accordion to them. I know all the big axle companies have lots of flex to their boots, but the diameter of those boots are too large for our stock axles. Who knows of a CV boot that will fit stock axles with plenty of flexing ability? Thanks!
For years I have put up with my Honda going into limp mode. As long as you drive it like a little old lady, it will work fine but as soon as you get on it, it will be stuck in that gear, then you have to stop and reset. I have dug into this thing several times over the years. The code always said the angle sensor. But after 3 angle sensors, I know that is not right, yes, preloaded. I have been through every connection……….. on and on and on. Point of this thread is that I was ready to take the wheels off and trash it but it runs so good and strong on the take off, yet whichever gear you get to is the gear your stuck in until you reset. So, I have been through every page in the manual. I am considering cutting every wire loose except the have to haves. Basically those needed for a dirt bike will stay. The basics only. Strip it of it’s ability to limp. I know it does not need to go into limp mode. This decision comes after years of working on it and ready 1000’s of post about trying to fix it. So many have replaced the ECM and it not help. So many have replaced the transmission and it not help. Honda has made a fortune on sensors that did not need replacing. This is a carb machine. Should be no electronics involved. Just the Electric shift. I will bypass it’s ability to use the automatic transmission. This is where the need for all the sensors comes from. So…. if you see a problem with this that I am overlooking, please point it out. It is this…. or the dump. It is a worthless 04 piece of junk if you can’t cross a ditch without it going into limp mode…. and no, it’s not going to the dealer who will say there is nothing wrong with it…. and I am not throwing more parts at it…. or ohming, or continuity testing…. Been there, done that. This post is not about what to try. As I have said, I have read thousands of post about the Honda Problematic, on 8 different ATV forums. No fix for this.
Hi all,
I think I know the answer to this question but I thought I might ask anyway just to see if someone comes up with a miracle cure for me.
I am cleaning up a 2000 350 ES 4×4. It is now running beautifully and didn’t take a lot of work to get to that point, mostly a new battery and clean fuel.
I thought it was going to take a bit more time so I decided to do some cosmetic work. I want to restore the very faded plastic and paint the racks. I broke a couple old bolts off trying to remove the racks but I’m not too worried about that. It is the bolts that just turn in place when I try to remove them that I am concerned about.
I am guessing there is a welded nut on the frame of the bike that has let go and won’t allow me to remove the bolts. I can’t get a wrench in anywhere to get a grip so that I can remove the bolt. All the spaces are too tight. I have two bolts on the front at the very bottom of the front bumper that just spin and all 4 on the back rack closest to the tail lights just spin and won’t move.
I am guessing this is going to take some pretty significant bolt cutting/grinding and some custom welding to figure this out. But if I am missing something simple or obvious I am open to suggestions. Thanks!
Hi all,
I think I know the answer to this question but I thought I might ask anyway just to see if someone comes up with a miracle cure for me.
I am cleaning up a 2000 350 ES 4×4. It is now running beautifully and didn’t take a lot of work to get to that point, mostly a new battery and clean fuel.
I thought it was going to take a bit more time so I decided to do some cosmetic work. I want to restore the very faded plastic and paint the racks. I broke a couple old bolts off trying to remove the racks but I’m not too worried about that. It is the bolts that just turn in place when I try to remove them that I am concerned about.
I am guessing there is a welded nut on the frame of the bike that has let go and won’t allow me to remove the bolts. I can’t get a wrench in anywhere to get a grip so that I can remove the bolt. All the spaces are too tight. I have two bolts on the front at the very bottom of the front bumper that just spin and all 4 on the back rack closest to the tail lights just spin and won’t move.
I am guessing this is going to take some pretty significant bolt cutting/grinding and some custom welding to figure this out. But if I am missing something simple or obvious I am open to suggestions. Thanks!
As the title states I have a 2016 outlander 1000. Looking at the titan qs slip on or full system for a little more power. I don’t particularly like real loud exhaust so this system is supposed to be 1 to 2db louder than stock. My question is do I have to run the hmf optimizer with just the slip on? According to hmf you have to otherwise it voids the warranty on the exhaust. I was under the impression with fuel injected bike like this the computer on the atv can compensate for the higher exhaust flow. Also as a side note would running this exhaust and optimizer affect the warranty? Thanks for any help/advise on this issue.
I just installed the rockcrusher portals on my 800r xmr and holy SH&^ is it awesome!!!!!!! The torque is ungodly and the height is just right not to big. The only problem I have ran into is the brake lines, the kit comes with new longer brake lines but the issue is the new lines has places for a banjo bolt on both ends, the problem is the stock lines on the 800 are sealed n you cannot remove them with out taking off the whole system :th_smiliepullhair: my ? is the guys that are lifting these 800 and 650 what are yall doin to extend your brake lines? the 1000 xmr brake system is different you can remove the lines individually which makes sense to me and if I had that system the kit that came with the portals will work but unfortunately I don’t.
Sorry for the wrong forum…….couldnt get the classified section to work!!
29.5x10x14 SuperATV Terminators on 14×8 No Limit wheels 4×137
Wheels have some normal scratches, but good condition overall. Tires in great shape, 2 worn a little more than the others, and 1 has small cut in the OUTER side wall…..NOT thru the tire. It never leaked, but I tubed it to be safe, and has never given any trouble. Only selling because I am going a different route with a Renegade XMR.
Asking $650 OBO. Located in Charleston IL.
Will also be selling a brand new set of 30x9x14 Silverbacks once I get the new machine.
