I’m planning on buying a new carb for my son’s 2001 Sportsman 90 and need some guidance on which way to go with the air filter.
The stock set-up on these is crap as it’s easier for the fuel to run down to the filter as its so low. Not to mention the air box is cracked so it’s not really doing what it was designed for.
Any thoughts on just getting a carb with the small air filter mounted right to it like pictured below?
Anyone have good luck with the inexpensive carbs ($20-25) for these 90 Cc’s online (eBay, etc….)?
Possibly add a pre-filter and call it a day or try to start all over with the stock set up.
Also need to figure out why I’m leaking fuel around the stop cock when I turn "on" the fuel.
Question for you gurus. Last time I had the Predator out for a rip, I heard a metallic creaking noise periodically, not a consistent thing, nor loud, could barely hear it at idle when rolling, I figured the wheels were loose as I had this happen before. I tightened them up, and while I was out there, I decided to grease the axle bearings. To my surprise, it took probably 20-30 pumps before I had grease squiring out one side of the carrier. The bearings seem tight still, and I don’t notice noise anymore, but I am headed on a week long trip to Island Park, ID and am taking it with to explore trails there and hit up St. Anthony.
In your opinion, do you think I’m ok to ride on the bearings?
1. Hot left leg
2. Cold start problems
3. Lean condition so entire bike really hot
4. Horrible fit/finish of rear storage compartment
5. Hot front storage compartment
6. Pushing in turns
Any other issues for the list?
Does Yamaha typically fix things after the first model year, or wait years to rectify based on liability issues?
Brand new 2016 850 XT and both times I have ridden it, it’s gone into Hi temp and limp mode. First time out with it, I went through a pretty good mud puddle so I just chalked it up to a dirty radiator. I gave it a good cleaning when I got back home. Second trip out, and I’m avoiding mud like the plague and a couple of hours into the day, and the hi temp and limp mode comes on. My wife has a 450L and she is running the same conditions as I am with no issues. I decided to pull the inner fenderwell panels off to hopefully get more air into the radiator which helps a bit, but still not a fix. I had to cut a weekend trip short because of this and I leave for a 10 day trip in a couple of weeks. Any ideas?
I want to take my nearly two-year old camping. I need an idea as to some sleeping arrangements for him. We have the table that folds down to a bed, and a queen up front for mom and me.
My boy never stops moving, and he currently sleeps in a crib at home. The colapsable travel cribs dont really fit, and are not big enough for him (big kid for his age). And he would never stay in a bed without a rail.
Anybody else have a crazy busy kid they take in the travel trailer? How do you fence them in so to speak while they sleep?
This coming fall I plan to rebuild the engine on my 2000 400EX. Does anyone know how to remove the rod from the crankshaft to replace the rod bearing. I have not seen anything on this. The manual does not show this.
Hi I’ve recently bought this honda from a guy and I cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor and replaced spark plug but I tested the spark plug to see if it was firing when I pushed the kickstarter down but no spark and I know it ran when I bought it. I think it’s an electrical issue. I don’t have a manual or anything to know how to test anything so I’m a little confused because it ran 2 days ago
My 1987 Honda TRX350 4wd ATV front loader build took about a year to complete. As this ATV has no powertake off, a Honda GX200 6 1/2 motor was
used to power a 4 GPH hydraulic pump. A 3 gallon hydraulic tank supplies the oil. The loader has four hydraulic rams- two for lifting and two to tilt the bucket. The two level controls are the left side of driver. The loader section was scratch build and made to be bolted on to existing tubular frame. It can removed from the ATV in about 45 minutes. The pump motor and tank is bolted to the rear rack and is connected with quick release couplings.