I plan to sell my 2010 my Renegade 500 and buy a Grizzly 700 to get power steering and bigger fenders and I have several questions about buying strategy and also about Grizzly’s.

First the questions about shopping:

*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.

*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.

*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?

*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?

*Any other advice or suggestions?

Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:

*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.

*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.

*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?

*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.

*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?

Thank you very much for any information!

Doug

I plan to sell my 2010 my Renegade 500 and buy a Grizzly 700 to get power steering and bigger fenders and I have several questions about buying strategy and also about Grizzly’s.

First the questions about shopping:

*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.

*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.

*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?

*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?

*Any other advice or suggestions?

Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:

*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.

*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.

*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?

*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.

*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?

Thank you very much for any information!

Doug

My 2003 Trailboss sat for a little while (maybe a month) and won’t start. I replaced the spark plug and appear to have good spark. I pulled the carb and took it apart and cleaned it the best I could. Put it all back together and nothing. I am getting gas to the carb as I can loosen the bowl screw and gas comes out. I checked to be sure there was nothing obstructing the muffler and found gas dripping out. I checked the crank case and it was full and smelled of gas. I have drained it and will get new oil tomorrow. Any idea why the gas in the oil? I read online that it could be from a stuck needle valve. Just curious if too much fluid in the crankcase would not allow it to fire. The carb seemed pretty clean and the passages didn’t appear to be obstructed. At one point I had the float sticking but have seemed to have fixed that. Any help would be great. This has always been a good running wheeler.

I’ve had a few sportsman’s and I know everyone seems to run into a brake problem at some point. I recently bought a 2002 sportsman 700. The foot brakes for what ever reason was disconnected and line coiled up. The hand brake worked on both front and rear brake but was soft. I decided to try to add fluid and bleeding the brakes. I removed the cover and noticed the seal was in pretty bad shape so I replaced it and the cover. Then I proceeded to bleed the brakes. No fluid is coming out. I tried cracking the cover and all bleeder overnight to gravity feed with no luck. I tried a mighty vac to vacuum bleed all bleeders, still nothing. Now at this point the brakes do not work at all. I disconnected the line from the outlet on the front master cylinder and squeezed the brake, nothing came out. I hooked the vacuum up to the outlet and still no fluid. I put my finger over the outlet and squeezed the brake, I can feel it pushing air and making suction so I belive the master is good. Seems like maybe something is blocking the fluid passages? Any suggestions?

The 2014 Sportsman 570 manual says "If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance between vehicle center and each wheel, This will tell you which tie rod needs adjusting."

I get two different measurements, so which tie rod should I adjust? How do I know which one is the correct one?

Appreciate any help.

Ran fine last fall and won’t start after sitting all winter. It doesn’t seem to be getting fuel. I have changed the filter and their is gas to the carburetor. The fuel pump is working and there is spark.

It will start if I remove the spark plug and dump a little gas in.

What else can it be?

Hi all, new member here.

2011 sportsman 500 100 hours on it will not start.
I ran it in the morning, came out 2 hours later it rolled over and backfired and now won’t start. Can smell fuel, and have spark. What do I check next.
Any and all comments (besides buy a Honda lol ) would be appreciated.

thanks

I have an older model Rancher. Had been sitting for a while. I took it all apart, cleaned out the gas tank, and took the carb off. Some of the vent lines were plugged, fixed that, the float was also stuck, fixed that.

My problem now is that I have a bad leak coming out through the overflow but the float is not stuck! The valve works, I can blow into the gas intake and manually operate the valve and it does shut off. The float has no holes in it. Why is my float not shutting off the gas??

Hey guys! I’m planning a trip up to ride the Wilds over Thanksgiving this year and was wondering who all has been and how you liked it? Any suggestions on where to stay and ride etc? Pics would be great too!

Thanks!!

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does anyone know what type of oil my 1997 polaris sportsman 400 takes i cant tell if its a two stroke or 4 stroke