been searching the web and can’t find a uni air filter to fit my scrambler. anyone know the uni air filter part number 2013 850 scrambler?

Got the valves adjusted and everything put back together on my Kodiak 400. Took it up the road to test it out and made it about 1/4 mile under 80-100% throttle then it starts surging a little and backfiring and trying to die. Kept it about 25% throttle and as long as I’m on flat road it runs fine. I pull back into my driveway put it in park and it idles and revs without hesitation. Make a hard lap around the yard and no problem. Head back up the road and same thing, about 1/4 mile starts sputtering. Any ideas? If the carb was gooped up wouldn’t I see sputtering instantly under hard acceleration?

Does anyone know exactly what style 1.25 gallon gas can fits in the center compartment of these things?! I have tried three different styles and none fit. I found one that almost fits, but the cover doesn’t close all the way. Does WES make one specific for this model box? If they do, I can’t find one. Also, what have you used as a gasket to make them a little more water resistant? In stock form, water gets in way too easily.

Thanks,
Craig

I am having an issue where it sounds like the gears are slipping if I hit the throttle really hard and also after letting off when the engine brake is applied. Also, the drive train that goes to the front also rides again the gear shift box. I will attach pictures and a video here shortly.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve attached a video so you can see the issue better. Essentially, at some point the inner seal on the CV boot twisted while the outer one stayed stationary. I’ve twisted it back straight but now I can’t seem to get it to accordion properly. Anybody know how to fix this or do I need to replace the boot. There are no holes in it so I’d rather not replace if I don’t need to.

https://youtu.be/MAepNgQZf24

foreman are slightly larger bikes (width), so being that its a bit larger, is it normal for the plastic rivets to pop out when i bump the wells up against trees and such?

and i found that the steelership sells them, is it easy to put them back in? or am i the only one with this problem

So im just bored and wanted to tell the ole 350’s story.

Bought it when i was 9 for 50 bucks, with a little work (the PO hooked the coil backwards) it was running. Rode it for 2 years no problem. Until we went riding all day and it started smoking BAD. So i parked it and mowed lawns untill i got the money to rebuild it. Then on my 12th birthday everyone’s looking for me and here i come pulling outa the garage on my fourwheeler. Did a victory donut. So then the next week when i was at school my dad decided to use it and well he didn’t pay attention and well wrecked it (front plastics tire rim tie rod and axel were destroyed. I honestly cried. Won’t deny it. Didn’t even have it for a week. So 3 years later (14 almost 15) i was working for this farmer (good ole boy, he lets me hunt his land) and i went into his shed and in the corner was an ’86 TRX350 motor was blown but it had all i needed, he said i could have it and all the parts for 35 bucks. Bought it and was working non stop on mine. So now im 15 and the final problem with her that i should have is now. Timing chain tensioner failed and thectiming chain streched and jumped timing and trashed the cam sprocket. So im saving money for her. While i have it apart im getting the topend bored out.

I know this may seem a bit unconventional, but I got out my trusty old GTECH today and did a few quick runs to see how it did. This is an older unit at 15+ yrs old. I used to run this in my trucks before I put in my Superflow chassis dyno. I always found it to be quite consistent and it proved itself once again:

Stock 0-60

4.80
4.76
4.91 (slight hook to wheelie on launch)

PC-V with my custom map 0-60

4.53
4.55
4.52

I see true promise for this device so long as I don’t cause too much attention running on an asphalt road. I’m hoping to run the fueling only map then timing only and see how they compare to the full tune. Later I have the QSC clutch kit, but I’m hoping to iron out as much in the tuning and test procedure as I can before installing. I may try to upgrade to a more advanced model if I can find one.

I was given a 2008 Polaris Sportsman 300 by the original owner. He is one of those people that was given a lot of money and respects nothing, and his kids are following right behind him. So, his kids pull the 300 up to a tree and proceed to cook the clutch until it could no longer move. Then they did the same to a John Deer 4×4. Nice kids, huh? They left it there for a year. Another kid pulled some parts off when he was told he could have it. He lost interest and along comes me another year later.

I feel sorry for it and decided to bring it back. I have it running just fine, but it won’t move because things are gone. I have never owned a 4×4 4stroke ATV. I had a couple of 250R’s, a Suzuki Quadzilla, and a Yamaha Blaster. All 2 strokes with full transmissions, so I have no idea what this needs or is missing. I have rebuilt cars and bikes, so I can probably do it but I don’t really know where I am beginning, considering the stuff that’s missing.

Is there someone willing to look at some pictures and can help me determine what is missing and needs to be replaced? Thanks for your time.

Jon

Hi Folks,

Looking for a little help. I want to upgrade the suspension to my ’13 Renegade 500. The stock shocks leave a lot to be desired. Sometimes its like riding a garbage trucks when in rocky terrain or lots of bumps. I have about $1000 to spend and wondering what my best options are. I mostly a ride mixture of rocky trails and sand trails. The terrains is pretty diverse here in SE Massachusetts. I did look at the fox shocks for $560.00 on BRPs website but want some opinions on my best options as I know there is a lot of knowledge here. Thanks

-fireman