I’m still finding the 2015 Rubicon rough on shifts a year after buying it and I’m really not happy compared to the 2015 Rancher I bought the same day. I’ve changed the oil four times since the purchase using Honda oil.
After getting some excellent advice from Kentco earlier this year, I have been reading on what’s the best brand that is available locally. I can get Mobil 1 at Walmart, but only in litres at $16.97 which is too much. I decided to buy the Rotella T6 Synthetic for $42.97 (5L) at Walmart with a $5 online rebate. I will be changing the oil tomorrow night and will have some feedback about any improvement in shifting.
Just wondering if anyone knows a non-Honda part number for an oil filter that I might be able to get at Walmart, Canadian Tire or Napa.
For those also reviewing JASO MA spec oil, I came across this excellent webpage with easy to understand explanations:
I have now installed a Grizzly 700 Clutch Cam Plate in my Grizzly 660. I completed this several weeks ago, but just put the first ride on it last weekend. So this is the update as promised from a previous thread I had going about poor gas mileage.
Since my last thread about poor gas mileage I have replaced my OEM secondary spring with a Dalton Red Spring (195 lbs @ 3", 312 lbs @ 1.75"). I have also installed a 2.0 mm shim (1.96mm measured on vernier caliper. I made the shim at home). But most importantly for this thread is the addition of the 700 cam plate.
The 700 cam plate has the exact same splines, size, fitment and angles as the 660 cam plate. The 700 cam plate just uses much, much better sliders that do not wear out. While I have found no performance increase with the 700 cam plate, there is absolutely no deficit either. But in my opinion the better slider design makes it a worthwhile upgrade to the 660 clutching. Additionally, the 700 cam plate with 4 new sliders (~$50) was still cheaper than a 660 cam plate alone (~$80) at my local dealer.
So for anyone Google’ing this or reading this on the future, the 700 cam plate is a bolt on part to the 660. It works perfect. I hope this helps someone that wants to find the answer to this question.
looking for new shocks. i have 3500 miles on my 550 and the shocks are shot, i mean gone. they bottom out on the smallest of bumps, so i am looking for new shocks that ride better and last longer than two years. i have a super atv 2 inch lift on my machine and was wondering what others have done to avoid spending almost 2 grand on new suspension. i cant justify spending 1/3 of the atvs value on one upgrade. has anyone swapped different shocks from or messed around with the super cheap ebay separate reservoir shocks and springs?
I’m hoping to pick up my new rubicon and rancher this weekend.
I have a trailer. 6×12 rear drop gate. Will these fit sideways on the trailer?
If not, I would probably have to take the toolbox out of the bed of my 2500 for one to fit. Would rather use the trailer for both if I can.
Need some info.
thx all.
I’m hoping to pick up my new rubicon and rancher this weekend.
I have a trailer. 6×12 rear drop gate. Will these fit sideways on the trailer?
If not, I would probably have to take the toolbox out of the bed of my 2500 for one to fit. Would rather use the trailer for both if I can.
Need some info.
thx all.
I am brand new to this forum but I have owned a Polaris 850 Sportsman since 2008.
This last year I have experienced a dead battery on multiple occasions but just thought it was due to weather, etc. I bought a new batter last month, worked fine for a few weeks and then last week it was dead. The quad has been stored in the garage since I got the new battery.
I figured it was time to investigate this issue. Upon many searches on this forum, I think I have isolated it to 1 circuit (5amp). But I’m now stumped and need help from everyone.
First thing I did was the "Key Off – Draw" test. This shows the following.
1. With 5amp fuse in place and voltage reg connected; draw is just over 11.6v
2. With 5amp fuse REMOVED, voltage reg connected; the voltage drops slowly from 11.6v to around .04v after 5min
3. With 5amp fuse REMOVED & voltage reg DISCONNECTED; i show .04v stable.
Can someone please help me with what to check next?
I have a Polaris Trailblazer 250 and we cannot for life of us get the reel off the pull start assembly!! It will not budge! Any tips or tricks would be great! :Flush:
Ordered some new wheels and tires for my 850. I went with the 14" STI HD3 narrow 6+1 offset wheels, and 28" bearclaw HTR’s. After having HTR for the last 1200 miles in 26", I knew I wanted to get the same tire again, just larger for a little more cushion and being able to run slightly lower pressure than a 26" on a 14" wheel can.
As many have said, the 26" run true to size in height and width. It appears as others have noticed that the 28" run true to size in height, but run about an inch narrower on both sizes, ie. 8" front instead of 9", and 10" rear instead of 11".
Also, my overall width did go from 48" to 50" with these wheels and tires, even with the narrow offset. I see why 4+3 wheels are not at all made for the XP chassis, as they would be another 4" wider overall.
I am glad I have extended fender flares, but I may do a little trimming at the front of the rears to give some more mud room. They don’t touch but are a little close.
tried to start my 2005(not fuel injected) ranger the other day and all i got was click, click. so i found in the archives on this site what to test, so i check for voltage on other side of solenoid and got the proper volts, so i jumped from the battery to the starter nut and starter turned and fired up the ranger, however with where the starter is i used a metal rod on the jumper cable and would actually have to tap it to get it to work, connection is very dirty, does this mean the starter is ok just a bad connection that needs to be cleaned. also i checked the continuity from solenoid to starter nut and it showed continuity
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