What is a good all around tire for trail and mud plus are you guys running stock size 30x9x14 tires on your xmr.

I am having some issues with my new sxs. My belt blew after 500km, yes I broke in the belt and the bike. I believe the CVT is not venting well and the belts are overheating. The gearbox dipstick snapped off when I went to replace it after checking the levels, with very minimal torque on it. My dealership lent me one from a new machine as they did not have on in stock to get it to the shop and their mechanic snapped that one putting it back in original machine. I also have a coolant leak somewhere.

Is anybody else having issues or am I just that lucky to get a built on Friday machine?

So brought my bike to a Polaris dealer and they told me the voltage regulators are in big recall but of course my model doesn’t qualify lol
But they also said my regulator seems to be what’s causing the problems but instead of buying a new one for nearly 300$ I was hoping someone changed theirs before? Have any recommendations for a good regulator not one that’s gonna cook my butt ad a lot of them do! Bike is a 2014 Sportsman 570! Thanks

camera vidoo : https://youtu.be/Bkp72ZtwS5c
gopro : https://youtu.be/0vIv2dGJsN4

So after much searching for answers, I offer what I found on my own. The stock battery, 14ah #4011138, CAN be upgraded to a 30ah #4011124 (Polaris battery). The manual tells you that this is an option but doesn’t go into the details that are involved! This is what I found out: The stock battery has the positive terminal on the left (as seen from the drivers view). The upgrade has the positive terminal on the right. What needs to take place is this…. Unscrew the two torks screws from the shroud directly under the upper headlamp. This will expose the 10mm nut that holds the hold-down bracket for the battery. Remove the nut, the bracket (rubber slide included). Save the nut but put the bracket away for the next owner. Disconnect the battery leads. Remove battery. Under the battery you will find a black spacer…. Remove it and store with the aforementioned bracket. You will find a large positive lead that comes from the right side front, around the steering assembly and then forward along the left side of the battery. This lead needs to be routed back around the steering and forward so that it comes out along the right side of the new battery. Move all of your leads out towards the front or of to the sides as you find convenient. The Polaris battery I bought has two attachment points for each terminal. The battery lays horizontal (leak proof design) I used the terminals that faced the front, not the sky. Reassemble the leads, paying attention to +/-!!. There should only be one lead going across the top of the battery once you complete and this is not a battery lead but is part of the electronics. I understand that there is a larger bracket available. I saw it mentioned on one of the numerous posts about battery upgrades. A purest would install the larger bracket. In my amateur opinion the front cargo box fits so tightly against the new battery that it can’t move. One other note….. My battery did not come charged as the dealer claimed. Might want to charge it Before installing. Nothing worse than going through all that effort only to find you have to wait for the battery to charge before you can enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Hope this helps anyone that comes across this. The dealer parts counter was no help. The other threads left out a lot of pertinent details that really needed mentioning….. reroute the positive lead!!

the other day when riding in deep snow on my 450, as usual, when the snow gets to deep the bike starts hopping but there was something different this ride.as the bike would start to hop a knocking or clunking noise would start in the drivetran somewhere so I backed off and tried the path again and same thing.checked u joints and nothing seems to be loose to me but I dont know how much play should be in them.any suggestions on what it could be? it runs fine with no noise only when it starts to hop.

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Hi folks,

I had a look for the VIN, and either its corroded/worn off or I looked in the wrong spot. I intend making a stand for working on the bike, so I can have a better look when I do that. In the mean time, is there any other way to age the bike for getting parts etc?

We bought it second hand off a dealer a number of years ago. An owners manual did come with it, I’m not fully convinced its the original manual. Is there another number I can look for on the machine someplace? Also there’s a number on the key we have, is that any use?

Thanks for reading.

has anyone tried any different belts on there 570 xmrs yet I got 75 kms on mine before it started squealing thinking im going to try a gates belt next ……and yes I broke it in I went about 50 or 60 kms driving easy no fast take offs or stops

:th_smiliefrustrated:th_smiliefrustrated

To start with, on the BRP catalog shows this cooler (LinQ 8Gal) as compatible or "Fits" on any G2 with LinQ rack but they never mention or show how will look or fit on it!
On appearance looks just OK, but usability I will give them 2 1/2 stars, or at least on my case when trying to use this cooler in my Outlander Max with the passenger seat on it, cooler lid won’t open all the way to stayed open so you will need two hands to operate it! One to hold the top lid and the other to grab your beer
Second down side for this cooler is that the interior height is so low that only fit (vertically) regular 12 oz, beer/soda cans, so forgetter about energy drinks or long necks…
And finally the rubber seal on the lid feels so cheap that won’t seal firm to maintain ice for a long time, even to keep your drinks out of dust!!!
But as any other deal, there are some goodies on this cooler, or at least I want to see them as good after spending $370
First, it has a good look that match the shape of the LinQ rack
Second, it’s easy to secure and remove from your Can-Am linQ rack
Third… mmmmm, third… well I don’t think that exist a third point… I’m just trying to justify what I pay for it…
I will not recommend this product to use it on Can-Am MAX with the second passenger seat, but will be OK single seater or for any side-by-side vehicle

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I’m installing the Glacier "Can Am" 60 inch snow plow on my Outlander. The quick attach upgrade comes with a Hall effect cable saver switch. It is suppose to shut off the winch when lifting the plow so you don’t stretch the heck out of the cable.

How sensitive is this switch? Does it need maybe a quarter to half an inch of movement before the winch quits? Or does it react the split second the magnet is in close proximity to the sensor?

I ask as I am exploring better locations to mount the Hall effect switch. Some of the guys on these Forums have come up with creative solutions to winch cable overloads while lifting the snow plow.

David