I smacked a tree pretty good today, bent my tie rod.
I noticed after straighten the tie rod I had up and down play in the handle bars.
I’m assuming the bushing took a hit.

Anything else it may be?

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Ok, new to Can Am, as I’ve always owned Yamaha Grizzly’s (wife still has one) and first time at ‘trying’ to clean the air cleaner? Did a quick check on Youtube, and didn’t come across much in the way of getting to – and cleaning the OEM air cleaner?
There looks to be green foam around the actual air filter itself, so do you just clean the foam, or is there a cleaner for the filter below the foam as well? I see a few guys go to an aftermarket foam filter, but for now I’d like to just get this clean, and go from there.
I just had to change my ignition switch, as I was having to wiggle the key to get the engine to start, so I thought I may as well give the filter a cleaning while in there!
I’m hoping to get some info, so I do this right!

2012 Can Am Max XT.

Thanks guys/gals!

So 12 years ago, I traded 2 snow mobiles off for a 1996 300 Fourtrax 2WD. Pretty much let my son beat on it whenever he wanted and I used it during hunting seasons. We used it to drag little league fields for 7 summers I made sure it had oil, new tires, and that was good enough. It hasn’t been run much in the last 2 years so I thought I would go through it and get it back to good.

Replaced the Solenoid & Starter and it ran like crap. Cleaned the plug and evicted the mice from the air box and cleaned the air filter. Got it running and noticed the fuel line leak. Replaced the line from the petcock to the carb. Now it’s running like a top. Go to move it onto the trailer – no brakes. Flushed the brake lines, thoroughly cleaned the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Go to move it, and right front tire is flat. Find the cracks in the sidewall and decided to replace it. Gonna let my brother use and store it at his place since I live in the city. I have thought about getting rid of it but it sure is fun driving it when I do.

Yeah, I know….cool story bro tell it again.

I’m redoing my snorkels and was curious if 2" is needed or 1.5" is good. Thanks.

Bought this rig a few weeks ago was told it had a warped head, the head was fixed put a new gasket set and piston and rings. starts supper easy and will run so so for a little while and then it floods out, I am using pre mix gas instead of the oil injection due to the previous owner saying he thinks that is how the damage was done anyway when It runs it smoke a lot and I know it’s a 2 stroke and will but when I checked counterbalance fluid it was creamy as well as when it died I pulled the plug and it had the same creamy residue on it I milled the head myself and did a visual inspection for cracks just curious as to if there is a way I can check to see what and where the leak is coming from possibly with compressed air ??

Skip to the number one for the main reason I posted

Hi I have a friend that asked me to fix his bike for him. He just broke the drive shaft and must have cracked a case when it flew off, so I’m repairing that.

1. So the real reason I’m here is my buddy was also wondering if I could rebuild the top end, BUT he want me to put a 700 piston and jug. I’m yet to look at the bike nor have I worked on a Rubicon for a few years so I have not a clue if it’s even possible. Thank you so much for your help ahead of time.!

Ok so I despise the forum search feature because I seem to never find any results I am looking for. That being said I was looking to see if there was a " how-to" on flipping the tie rods.

I just noticed that either at full turn/flex I am getting the slightest rub on the rubber boot on the tie-rod. I never noticed it before and the rubbing is not so much that it has caused any damage to either the tie rod or tires.

I am already running ITP steelies with a 4+3 offset.

I gave RDC a shout via email and they are closed until after the 4th so getting a set of those on order isn’t an option currently and I would like to see if I can remedy this before my next ride.

The only real question I have is did the flip throw off the alignment? I didn’t have a chance to look too well on my lunch break. If I need to adjust it out I will probably just throw the Zillas on until I can order the 1/4 spacers from RDC. (I only have this rubbing issue with the new tires since they are pretty wide all around)

Thanks in advance for the input.

Ok , so I want to talk about preload on shocks.

I know lots of guys are under the impression that adjusting your shock preload , will change how "stiff" your suspension is.
This is NOT CORRECT.

Preload adjusts your ride height , and how much your dampener is sagging. Just because you have spaced the spring 1" higher in its cradle , does not mean that now the spring is stiffer..
ITS STILL THE SAME SPRING…

Picture standing on a BIG spring ,, now place a stool under that spring.. Did the spring change ? NO ,, what changed is your height…

By changing your ride height , it moves your CENTER OF GRAVITY higher , and this , in turn, changes how your quad handles..

Now , lets say you ONLY add preload to the front shocks , like lots of guys do .. why ? because they want to have less "roll" in the front end when turning.. Now most would say , that it added "Stiffness" and thats why it has less roll.. WRONG , it has less roll because the front has been RAISED , and that in turn changes the center of gravity , and makes the rear end take more of the weight transfer.. Also since the front is higher it has more to travel before it starts to "roll over" the front wheel.

Cranking up All four shock preloads will make your ATV more stable and less tipsy..
WRONG AGAIN
By cranking up your preloads , and raising your center of Gravity, it will make your ATV MORE tipsy , and LESS stable.

Lowering your quad will make it more stable , and less tipsy. The downside is lost ground clearance.

Lets say you have a HUGE rear cargo box on back , and that causes your quad to "SAG" you can adjust your preload and help remove the SAG , by raising the spring.. Nothing has changed ,, but your spring position is higher , and that lifts the rear.. The spring is going to be compressed the same distance regardless , and actually as it transfers weight to the front , it may compress less.

I hope this helps some , and I am not trying to debate with others.. Its a common misconception , and I myself was not clear on how it worked until recent years.

hello all, new to the forum. old news.. new thread. i couldn’t find any recent discussion about this, sorry if i’m in the wrong area. second owner 2010 sportsman 400 ho 200mi. first few short rides never heard the fan come on. hot engine light works when key first turned on, after finding the wire to sensor on engine block unplugged. got braver today, temps. in the high 70s, rode 2.5 miles road and trail. still no fan but no hot engine light. smelled hot after shutting it down. full rad and engine hot to touch. help afraid to ride it! thanks for any suggestions

I am trying to get the head off to replace head gasket, I can not get a wrench or socket on the center lower bolt, do I have to remove the rocker arms to get this off? HELP! Thank you. Since I am replacing head gasket is there anything else I should replace while opened up? No oil burning issues, ran good.