Some ES issues that were traced to the gear position switch with the help of some nice folks on this site. My question for those familiar with the 02 Recon version, is it possible to remove the rear crankcase to access the GPS without removing the swingarm? Looks pretty tight in there.

I traded my 13 gade XXC that i had no problems with — had it all set up the way I wanted it —

Here in NJ its not legal to ride anywheres — so

My friend and I desided to try enduro bikes — I got a 2016 KTM 500 EXC —

long story shortened — I hate the bike — went to hatfield mccoys with it and was a nightmare — fell 4 times and 1 time was bad .

$1900 flipped in the bike financially — question is — do I sit the bike in the shed for a year or so and get it paid down, and hope I an get better money later ?

I have looked into a 2016 can am outlander 1000 XMR — the machine , tax , reg , set up , frieght and the $1900 came to $16800 OTD .

am i crazy to trade or just store away the bike for a year or so ?

thanks for your opinion

It appears that I have either a worn out shift shaft or a bell crank. What is most common to replace on these when you can’t get it in high or reverse? It’s been difficult to get it to stick in gear for some time now. I have tightened up the nuts on the shaft and the linkage but now it doesn’t want to go in either gear.

I was wondering if anyone else has experienced an issue with needing to add engine coolant to the keep it above the "Min" line on the recovery bottle? The bike is relatively new, only 35 hours on it so far, but I have needed to add a decent amount of coolant two or three times now. What bothers me is that the coolant level is always going down. I understand how it works in general. As coolant is heated the excess is forced out of the engine back into the recovery bottle, and as the coolant is cooled it is drawn out of the bottle and into the radiator. I have never witnessed the level every rising in the recovery bottle, and I have checked after periods of long riding. I have seen the level go down in the recovery bottle after cooling though. I have checked for leaks numerous times and found none, both on the bike and the garage floor. I have been monitoring the oil level and it is not rising, but my next step is to change the oil completely to see if I see anything in it. The manual states some coolant level drop is normal on new vehicles, I guess I am just wondering whats normal. The bike is not overheating or doing anything to make me believe there is an issue, but I am still kind of paranoid about where the coolant is going.

Anybody running the stage one Elkas, need to look at upgrading the wifes machine ( my 2011 XT Max ) the shocks are tired??:aniwheeler6:

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I can’t tell any difference between minimum, medium and maximum on my power steering although it does appear to give some assistance. Any thoughts?

I just bought a 2016 rancher 420 yesterday. It’s got about 5 hours on it. When it’s cold I have no issues at all. When warm it runs perfect, except for one thing. When I’m slowing down to a stop. Dropping it through the gears. If I leave it in 1st or 2nd when I come to a complete stop. The idle gets slower and slower and slower till it dies. Takes about 5 to10 seconds from stop to engine dying. Then after it dies it a little hard starting. It’s not hard starting at any other time. Just after it dies. If I kick it into neutral just before I come to a stop, most of the time it won’t die just idle really slow for a moment then come back up to normal idle speed. But sometimes it will die even in neutral. But it dont always do it. Totally intermittent. Dealer said it just needs time for the computer to self learn and it will fix itself. Anyone had this problem or have any idea what the issue is.

Hi all. I have a ’95 Polaris 300 4×4. I had to swap out the CDI unit because I fried it installing a new ignition switch (had wiring backwards). When I was messing with the ignition switch, I am pretty sure i fried the CDI unit because once I finally had the switch wired correctly, i couldn’t get my atv to start. It would turn over but never would start. I have a junker ’92 Polaris Trail Boss 250, and I put that CDI unit on it, and boom it started right away. However, when driving it, it won’t let me rev it up. The rpms fluctuate and don’t let me open it up. Would this be because I put the CDI from the Trail Boss in it? I did find out that the OEM # for the CDI in mine vs the Trail Boss is different, but would that really make the difference? When I drive my atv, it does have a blue smoke coming out and like I said it won’t let me really rev it up. Thoughts?

So quick info, on my 2011 outlander max 800 its been rough starting at times and even hot starting its been stubborn, got no codes and it sputts and stalls once in a while. We had it up in the mountains last weekend and it lost power, it would idle but not pick up unless I pumped the throttle, it would go for 10 secs and loose power, pump the throttle and it would go, I performed this for 5 miles and got it back to camp. It still starts but its sometimes unhappy lol. I am thinking fuel pump???:th_smiliepullhair: