place the quad on level ground and break all 4 tie rod adjusting nuts loose. the rods must NOT have any bends in them or endplay in the ends, replace as necessary. also make sure the steering stem nut is fully tightened, this will allow the collar that holds the inner tie rod ends to wobble throwing your steering adjustment off and cause front end shaking.
take a string and tie it to the front bumper TEMPORARILY. take said string and run it around the center (across the axle nut section) of all four tires and tie the string as tight as possible to itself.
take 2 straps and run from your handlebar grips to your back rack (or rear bumper on sport quads). take a tape measure and measure from the back rack or rear bumper to the handlebar end caps, make this measurement even (example 32" on both sides) and make sure the straps are SNUG, NOT TIGHT. tight straps will bend the handlebars throwing your measurements off. your handlebars are now completely straight as compared to the frame, this can only be done if your rear rack/rear bumper is not bent or otherwise compromised. on units with a center headlight (newer TRX500 owners pay attention do not line up your handlebars with the headlamp, do it with a tape measure. the headlamp points to the right slightly from the factory with the bars straight.
now pay attention to the string as the backside of the front tires and the front side of the rear tires contact the string. screw your tie rods in or out to achieve an even setting. if your rear tires are wider than the front, you want the string to touch the front of the rear tires and approximately 1/8th inch gap between the string and the backside of the rear tire. this will give you a slight toe out if you go further than this. if you screw the tie rod the other way and the backside of the front tire contacts the string but the front of the rear tire has a gap, you are toed in. use the gaps (or lack thereof) as a way to make sure the left and right tires are toed in or out evenly and properly. when the desired result is achieved, check your handlebar measurements and make sure they did not move. if they are correct, tighten the lock nuts and remove the straps and test ride.
if you want your tires completely straight and set it with no gap on either tire, after adjusting the tie rods put the bike in REVERSE and tap the throttle in gear. the bike should roll backwards approximately 15 feet without steering the handlebars. if it pulls to one side that side is toed in, screw it in to pull the front of the tire out more.
remember, toe in is better for straightline stability at speed with less steering ability, toe out is less straight line stability but increased turning ability (most 4wd vehicles are slightly toed out from the factory for this reason.)
this method will NOT work on machines with uneven wheels spacers, uneven tracks (front end wider than the rear axle) or mixed rims with different offsets. it WILL work with factory rims and tires or overside wheels and tires FOR THAT APPLICATION (i.e. solid axle rear tires and rims wider than the front, the track or front and rear width is the even/same measurement.) can you return your machine to stock spacing and rims, set the steering and reinstall the spacers etc.? yes you can, however understand the other changes you just make will also affect your handling.
