new to the forum and have already found a lot of helpful information here over the years but never joined.
So I’ve been fighting troubleshooting my unit which will not run/start currently. I also have extensively read and followed all the troubleshooting in Stew’s threads.
I just created my own problem by breaking the retaining clip housing on the fuel regulator I was trying to replace. I cannot seem to find that housing anywhere on the internet. The 2007 is the type with the large clothespin type retaining clip that goest through 4 slots in the housing. The BWD 23020 did no seem to be an exact replacement and when trying to get it seated in the housing and inserting the clip the housing broke on one side.
So my first ever question on the forum is can I find that housing anywhere?
Here is what I did troubleshooting the machine. It had been running but over time it was sputtering and had poor throttle response at times until if finally decided not to run at all. if you pumped the throttle several times it sometimes would fire and only run on idle. When you tried to gas it, it would die.
First I found the rubber manifold was cracked between the throttle body and the cylinder so I replaced it. I also found the throttle cable housing where it entered the throttle body was broken so I replaced the throttle cable as well.
I went through the whole TPS setup procedure I found here. Set the base voltage first, then the tps idle voltage for my make model (I also have a printout of the complete service manual).
I replaced the TBAP harness with the improved harness because I read where broken wires were common. Wiring measures to spec with a VOM.
I measured the CPS and it was within spec with a VOM back to the ECU (no wiring issue in harness)
both injectors measure within ohms spec
no visible leaking fuel at injectors or rail.
battery in good condition, all voltages are present and correct.
put EFI gage on rail and measured 39psi +/- 3psi when key was on. HOWEVER it would drop to ~30-35psi when I would crank or get it to idle (which was always difficult)
So I bought a replacement fuel pump and installed, the pressure improved to within spec initially when key was on or when cranking running. After continued troubleshooting it began to behave differently which I will cover later and it led me to my current fuel regulator replacement attempt.
after seeming to have good fuel pressure it seemed that the ECU must be the culprit since I had tested most everything else.
I found a used ECU that was touted as "in working condition, verified on a machine". I bought it since the reviews of the seller were very high and large volume.
ECU made no difference.
at this time I began to notice that I would turn the key on and the fuel pressure would go to 39 psi but would bleed very rapidly down. The pump would come on (you could hear it run) then the relays under the hood would click and the pressure would rapidly bleed away.
I pulled the relays and the terminals were corroded. I cleaned them and pulled and checked all connectors I could find on the machine.
After cleaning the connectors on the relays the fuel pressure issue seemed to improve but still didn’t act correct according to the manual. it would pump to 39 then the relay would still click moments after turning on the key and the pressure would drop to around 30-35 and hold. I still suspected the regulator may be erratic so I bought one locally but broke the housing upon installation.
So that is where I am to this point…need to find the parts to repair it (I did see a post about using a hose clamp) but would rather fix it properly.
Also, have I missed anything obvious in all my troubleshooting technique?
Additionally, I do get good spark when i pull the plugs and test. I have not done a compression test yet
Sorry for the long first post….
