A car wash that you can drive through! $16.99 and it’s the same type as for your car. Vacuum, windows, and interior wipe down, then the price goes up from there if you want more. It’s got big hoops you drive through with spray nozzles they do some hand cleaning along with it. It can even take trucks with toolbox beds like your local utility trucks.
I’m tired of spending $5 to spray it off (just a rinse) myself in the bay or paying $35 for a hand wash. I know, everyone says just wash it yourself in the driveway, but I’m on a private well and the water is pretty hard. Even if I use my softened water it’s still a chore to stay ahead of the spotting before this crew cab long bed dually dries.
It’s on Scottsdale Rd just north of Deer Valley rd. 2 miles north of the 101 freeway.
Classic Car Spa
22111 North Scottsdale Rd
Scottsdale, Az 85255
480.563.9500
I have a 34′ enclosed gooseneck. When I ordered it, I opted out of the in-floor spare tire compartment due to cost, and now kind of regret it. I currently just keep the spare on the floor and drive the rzr over it. That’s not a big deal, but I’d like to get it out of the way.
Mounting up high on the wall would be ideal, but due to the weight of it, I am bit leery of that. My old trailer had one of these mounts http://www.redlinestands.com/catalog…NJzBoCUkzw_wcB that held the tire upright against the wall, on the floor. (It was originally mounted on the wall, but fell off…).
What are you guys using/doing to mount a spare in your trailers? Pics appreciated if you have them. My wall structural members are 1" x 2.5" tubular steel 16" on center. Spare is 16" steel wheel with load E rated tire, so it is quite heavy. Any info is preciated.
I am hoping some of you have the answer: bought a used utility trailer. I am installing E Track on the floor. I am finding it nearly impossible to drill the 1/4" holes I need into the steel cross members! The wood floor is attached to the cross members using 1/4 self tapping deck screws. I know from the guy that built the trailer that they drilled a 7/32" pilot hole and then tapped with these screws.
I tried to do the same thing. Broke two bits in the process and still have not drilled a hole! My thought was to drill 1/4" and use bolts to attach. But it doesn’t really matter what approach if I can’t get a dang hole drilled.
Hello guys! I’m new to the RZR Forum and my wife and I are looking to buy our first toyhauler. We want something that can easily be used for boondocking for extended stays in the middle of nowhere. We live in Colorado and enjoy the outdoor Colorado life. I just bought a 2015 Ram Mega Cab Dually so I have plenty of rig to tow whatever size toyhauler we purchase.
My question is to the guys that have the longer toyhaulers (40+ft):
How hard is it for you guys to get into remote places for boondocking and dispersed camping? Do you find that the length interferes with where you want to go? I understand that the wide-open places are easy enough to maneuver around in, but what about places like Colorado, where you’re trying to get into some wooded areas? Any advise for this newbie toyhauler guy would be extremely welcome. Thanks!
Ok so I just have a 2014 Silverado crew cab 4×4 gas, looking at toy haulers but not sure what my limit would be as far as length, weight? I will be needing to haul a 900s for now… So guys with these trucks what are you hauling? What’s a good toy hauler I should look into thanks
Hi Folks — I’m about to pull the trigger on a 22FBX toy hauler later this week and I’m curious if anyone has any complains about this manufacturer/model series.. It will fit my 14′ 1000 no problem and will also fit a 4 seat 1000 should I upgrade later.
I know it’s not a high end model or anything and you get what you pay for.. but it seems decently well built and the floor plan is pretty slick.
Anyways… anyone have any issues that stand out/couldn’t be easily fixed?
Hey guys looking for some help. I need to add some more/better tie down points to my 26ft weekend warrior. The problem is the spots where I need to add the anchor points to have tanks for fresh and waste water directly below although the there is a gap of a few inches separating the floor and the tanks. Has anyone else ran into this and came up with a good solution to bolt them down. Maybe using toggle bolts or…….? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The stock anchor points are extremely cheesy and I’m starting to rip them out of the floor.
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