New here! Just purchased a 2000 Sportsman 335 that needs a little bit of work. Has a brand new battery that was reading 11v when at idle. Turned out the stator was done and 2 of the yellow wires had melted against the exhausts. Put a new stator in and all 3 yellow wires have the right voltage now, but the battery still isn’t charging. I noticed the red wire from the regulator was not hooked to anything and looked capped off. From looking at diagrams it appears it’s the only link to the battery from the regulator. What exactly is the connection point for the red wire?

I have a 2010 850XP EPS Sportsman that is very hard to shift through the gears while running. When it is not running it shifts nicely. I have read several threads here about adding washers behind the secondary bolt or taking shims out to stop the secondary from spinning while in park or neutral. My bolt and setup did not look like what was showed here on that specific thread. I took the belt off, and blew out the clutches, and reinstalled the belt. I guess everything looked fine. That was the first time I had been in there. Previous owner said the belt was recently changed. it did look good, and it is a Polaris belt. The secondary continues to spin while running, making the shifting very hard, almost two handed shifting. I have searched thoroughly before making my own thread. I’m sorry to those who have to hear about this issue again, Just looking for some help to make things like they should be and better. The bike has 402 hours and 2600 miles on it.

so after much reading on your forums (you guys are the sh!t), i bought a db starter and bendix for my 2009 Sportsman 800 HO. The starter was even easier than expected to get out.
Question is, should i go ahead and replace the bendix even though i don’t have any reason to believe it’s going bad (since the starter is out)? i thought it would be easy but it looks like you have to take the flywheel off to replace the bendix — and i would have to wait and borrow someone’s puller to do that. Can someone correct me if i’m wrong here? I did not take off the flywheel cover yet.

Also, do i need to grease the shaft of the new starter? what type of grease?

thanks in advance, i couldnt do anything without all of your info on here.

Hey guys, i am a newbie to this forum and was hoping to utilize all of your experience to try and figure out my problem. 1st off i own a 2004 sportsman 500 Ho, i am the original owner. It is a model A04CH50AO, VIN 4XACH50A84A073474. Built on 10-23-2003 sold on 11-21-2003 as an 04. I am having the typical battery flashing light problem. static battery voltage is 12.6 idle voltage is 12.6 running at 3000 rpm it charges at 17.6 volts. This machine is not part of the ECM recall. Polaris sold me a load shed switch to cure this,there isnt one on this quad. I am wondering if there is a voltage regulator or a rectifier on this one. i cant find either. My next step was going to be to replace the Ecm to the tune of 160.00 but I am leary to do that without knowing if there is another voltage regulator or a rectifier that i am missing. The ECM in it is the original.

This how-to will entail wiring description for wiring an add on reverse/work light, wired to turn on when the transmission is shifted to reverse or on demand with a wired switch(there is no tapping into the reverse override switch circuit). I will describe how to wire both an add on/aftermarket ligth(LED or halogen will both work) or stock rear work light on the machine(sorry if I get you confused on this portion as I am working off my memory as to how it was wired to the factory harness, I will attempt to assist you through it in the replies section).

The unit I am installing this on is a 2015 Sportsman 850 SP, however the relays and wiring kit I origianlly used on a 2007 Sportsman 800, so I will describe wiring for both. Currently I have an after market LED light, simply wired to a switch on the pod which I will be utilizing.

What I utilized is two 12VDC, 5 pin relays(pictured below later):
SPDT Relay : (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a), and one normally open terminal (87).

I also utilized 8 female spade terminal connectors, 3 male spade terminal connectors, various 14 gauge wires of different colors, a suitable two terminal switch, and 2 heat shrinkable butt splices(I used heat shrinkable butt splices because these will be used to splice two connections at the transmission gear selector switch which is exposed to the elements)

Two 12VDC 4 pin relays will also work, you will not use the 87a terminal on the 5 pin relay. The 4 pin relay does not have an 87a terminal, hence it being a 4 pin relay

I will write the description of wiring as I have pictured with corresponding wire colors in the pictures for ease of visualization, you do not have to use the same color wires nor do they have much special purpose other than that’s how this wiring kit arrived to me. They are color coded for ease of installation, just make sure you mark which wires are which for ease of you installation.

Also, I would suggest marking one of the relays as right and the other left to keep the orientation correct for ease of wiring. I will refer to the relays as either “Right” or “Left” so I can refer to the terminals easier while describing the job.

To start, tape the relays together with the 30 terminal on each relay facing eachother as show here:

[IMG][/IMG]

Next, with the female spade terminal connectors, attach the Red wire to the Left 85 terminal, jumper to the Right 30 terminal, jumper to the Right 85 terminal, to a lead wire approximately 12 inches long, as pictured below, this wire will be attached to a fused 12VDC source, from an ignition circuit or in my case, or if you have the factory installed work lights it will be attached to the 12VDC+ wire or the harness:

[IMG][/IMG]

Next, attach the Brown wire lead, again approximately 12 inches long, to the Left 30 terminal, with a female spade terminal connector as pictured below, this wire will be attached to a ground, normally the brown wire in the pod, you can wire it direct to the negative terminal of the battery if you so wish:

[IMG][/IMG]

Next, attach the Blue wire lead, again approximately 12 inches long, to the Right 87 terminal, with a female spade terminal connector as pictured below, this wire will be the positive wire lead to your light, or if you have the factory installed work lights it will be attached to the normally open terminal(switched side) on your factory harness or light switch:

[IMG][/IMG]

The following picture is a two conductor wire that was utilized with a jumper wire from one conductor. The black jumper is attached to the black wire with the yellow female spade connector to the wire with a ribbed marking on the insulator; the other black lead is a smooth insulator. This was used for identification purposes and to keep these wires neat while routing to the transmission gear selector switch on the transmission where the splice will occur. You do not have to use the same style wire but you will need to mark the wire with the yellow female spade terminal connector to the jumper separate from the other so the splice at the transmission gear selector switch is correct or your speedometer will not indicate that you are in reverse. I will refer to the wiring connections on the picture after the next picture as “Black Ribbed” “Black Smooth” and “Black Jumper” so bear with me on the next two pictures. Make the following harness as pictured below:

Next, attach the Black Ribbed wire with the yellow female spade connector to the Right 86 terminal, attach its’ Black Jumper to the Left 86 terminal, and attach the Smooth Black wire to the Left 87 terminal, as pictured below:

[IMG][/IMG]

Your relay pack wire harness is now complete, here is another view:

[IMG][/IMG]

And a simplified diagram:

[IMG][/IMG]

The next picture describes the transmission gear selector switch plug splice between said switch and the resistor module. The plug is black and is located on the transmission near where your shifter rod is attached to the transmission.

[IMG][/IMG]

You will have to cut the wire that comes from Position B of the switch plug (on my 2015 850 SP, it is the red wire, on my 2007 800, it was the purple wire, I believe the XP line uses the same red wire as the picture below is of the XP wire harness, I am unsure if the non-XP line uses the same or not but it should be the wire in position B of the plug, don’t quote me on it though lol).

[IMG][/IMG]

The picture below, the gear selector switch plug is on the right, the black square box to the right is the resistor module. As you can see, cut the Red wire(position B on the plug),
splice the Black Ribbed wire to the wire coming out of the plug and the Black Smooth wire to the wire going to the resistor module.

[IMG][/IMG]

Attach the Black Ribbed wire to the wire coming from the plug with a butt splice connector where you made the cut, and attached the Black Smooth wire to the wire leading to the resistor module with a butt splice connector.

[IMG][/IMG]

You should now be ready to make the rest of your final connections. Below describes where all the wires will be attached:

Red: Fused 12VDC+ source (or normally closed side of switch/always hot side of switch)
Blue: 12VDC+ to light (or normally open side of switch/switched hot)
Brown: Ground
Black Ribbed: Plug of transmission gear selector switch plug position B, plug side of cut
Black Smooth: Plug of transmission gear selector switch plug position B, Resistor Module side of cut.

In the future, I am going to change the wiring for the power to the relay pack to keep from drawing all its power straight from the ignition circuit. I am going to add an addition relay, wired straight to the battery, using the ignition circuit to trigger the relay when the key is on and pull power from the battery. I will post pics of this when I complete it.

I hope this helps and sorry if the pictures are hard to visualize, again I will attempt to help everyone out in the replies.

Hello. Could anyone tell me how to install a winch cover?? My son has a 2014 Polaris Ace & he had a small accident that broke the cover, so we bought a new one & thought it would be easy to install. Normally I can figure these things out but didn’t want to take things apart that weren’t necessary. Thanks for any help 😊

So…my wife and I went out for a ride today and I noticed a whining noise coming from the front diff. So after the ride was over I checked the CV shafts and low and behold both of them have play where they go into the front diff. So I am going to assume that both bearings are shot. Next question is this a hard repair? I was looking at the parts schematics and it seems pretty simple. I was also going to replace all the seals with a seal kit while in there. Any after market recommendations? A few ebay searches didn’t turn up much.
Its for a 2012 Polaris Sportsman 850 XP EPS

So…my wife and I went out for a ride today and I noticed a whining noise coming from the front diff. So after the ride was over I checked the CV shafts and low and behold both of them have play where they go into the front diff. So I am going to assume that both bearings are shot. Next question is this a hard repair? I was looking at the parts schematics and it seems pretty simple. I was also going to replace all the seals with a seal kit while in there. Any after market recommendations? A few ebay searches didn’t turn up much.
Its for a 2012 Polaris Sportsman 850 XP EPS

Want to start a thread that will detail a rad kit installation, because all the info I’ve gathered says WildBoar’s instructions are vague and generic, and surprisingly there isn’t a real good on here either. So first let me get some things out of the way. I have a 2015 570, and while out on a ride it overheated, first and only time it has ever happened. So I am putting the kit on so I (hopefully) won’t ever have to worry about it happening again. I ordered the kit from Wildboar.com for 170$ (no shipping charge) and it arrives Tuesday, 10/06/15. I chose wildboar because I couldn’t find any one else who has a 570 specific model. Alright, I’ll post again when it arrives and do an ‘unboxing’ of sorts, and I’ll try to make this thing as pic heavy as I can for all my addicts out there, lol.

Recently got a 97 sportsman 400 as part of a trade. Believe the motor to be bad. Have someone couple hours away with load of Polaris jet ski motors. Does anyone know if the two are at all simular or could be made to fit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.