Mod 2 & 1 are at the bottom of the post.
It was just a matter of time until someone put the system through its paces and come up with some sort of problem. This was done recently and the problem found was that of the amplifier getting extremely hot inside the enclosure. The system was continuously used for approximately 6 to 7 hours, non-stop.
All I can say that if you are going to play your tunes loud for extended periods of time, some things are bound to happen. The problem mentioned above is a prime example of what happens in this situation. This system is completely sealed and the amplifier has no way to recuperate as it has no cool air to cool down, it is recirculating the same hot air produced by itself and the coil of the subwoofer, creating excessive heat inside the enclosure.
When I was told about the problem, I removed my enclosure and started looking for a way to make it work without adding any new plugs (drilling the enclosure) and having the amplifier in a different location that will provide better airflow to it. At the beginning of this whole mod, I was reluctant about doing it but after revising the wiring on the current harness it can be done. This also creates a whole new avenue for this modification, now you can add your own sub (one that fits) and the amplifier of your choice (remember to match them appropriately) and the beauty of it, you will only use two wires from the original stock harness to wire the speaker and the rest will be wired externally to power up the amp, but you will still need the entire harness due to the plug it has.
Here is what you will need:
One of these Ace 16-14 AWG Blue Male Disconnect – 6 Pack – Wire Clips & Connectors – Ace Hardware
About six of these Ace 16-14 AWG Blue Insulated Butt Connector – 10 Pack – Wire Clips & Connectors – Ace Hardware
Ancor-Marinco 3/8in ID x 10ft Split Loom (453382) – Standard Flashlights – Ace Hardware
Crimper and the necessary tools to remove the sub.
By now some of you have done the mod and if you want to go through this fix, you should know how to remove the enclosure, for those that would like to do the mod, the instructions are at the bottom of the post (old enclosure).
Once the enclosure is out, remove the subwoofer, it has 8 torx screws; 4 T20, 4 T15 and one hex 5/32 bolt in the rear holding the subwoofer (do not use power tools for any of this) remove the rear bolt first!!!!
If you are using the MTX subwoofer, one of the screws can be removed from the rear of it when re-installing the subwoofer to the enclosure.
Disconnect the subwoofer and set aside, remove the white filler until ready to re-assemble. At this moment you can tape, cover and zip tie the brown, red and blue wire. You will no longer need them. The only cables you will need from the enclosure are the thick black and white wire (NOTHING ELSE).
Remove the two T20 torx screws holding the inner bracket for the amplifier.
Disconnect the amplifier, remove it from the bracket and set aside for the moment. Use two strips of electrical tape and cover the two holes from the inside where the amplifier bracket goes. Mix a bit of JB Weld and cover both holes (if you don’t want to use JB Weld, then reinstall the amplifier bracket). Set enclosure to the side, once mod is complete, the tape can be removed and JB Weld will be set (let it cure overnight).
Remove your MTX sub relay from the positive, ground and ACC terminals, you will no longer need that relay. Tape, cover and, zip tie it, then forget about it. This is the harness for the subwoofer, the plugs with the yellow arrows are the only ones we are going to use, and the ones with the black arrows need to be covered. So make sure you unplug all connectors.
Install your amp, this is looking from the driver’s seat. The cable for the PEQ controller is already connected on this picture.
Now onto the three wire harness that comes from the front overhead unit (Blue, white and black wire) this should be running down the roll bar. These three wires are all 16 gauge!!!
The blue bullet connector and plug with the black and white wire should have been disconnected from the main harness. Remove about 3 to 4 inches of the black tape covering the wires. Cut the black and white wires at about 2 inches from the plug, don’t throw it away, you will use it on the high level connector.
You will need some wire for this. Use a 16 gauge wire for the amplifier remote wire (blue wire) add a bullet male connector on one end of the wire and connect it to the female end of the three wire harness plug, connect the other end to the amplifier connector.
Almost there. This amplifier comes with two high level connectors, one with an RCA end and the other with the ends not terminated. The one with the RCA ends need to be cut at the middle joint, making it similar to the other one.
Plug one of the high level connectors into the speaker output (speakers) of the amplifier then add the plug that was cut off the three wire harness to it. Black wire to bottom right negative, white wire to top left positive. This is your bridge to the speaker. Cover the two other ends.
Plug the new connector into the main harness.
For the other high level connector, join the two positives and the two negatives together and connect them to the cut black and white wires from the three wire harness. The two negatives to the black wire and the two positive wires to the white wire. Then plug the connector into the “input” of the amplifier.
Final stretch. You will need two, ten gauge wires for the power and ground of the amp. The PBR300X2 (and PBR300X1) require 10 gauge wires for the power and ground, it has to be wired directly to the battery with a fuse on the power wire. It was not done on the previous mod because I wanted to keep everything with a clean install and use the given wires that were inside the enclosure. The wires inside the enclosure are 14 gauge (brown and red wires) and don’t provide enough resistance to the amplifier resulting in the amp getting hot quicker if used for a prolonged time.
If you have a fuse box installed, you can use one of the slots on it for the power and ground, use a 30 amp fuse on it.
If you don’t have a fuse box and you are using a bus bar wired to the three prongs of your rzr, you will need to get a fuse holder and run it from there. Same thing, power wire directly to the battery wire (30 amp fuse) and ground to negative of battery.
If no bus bar or fuse box, then go straight to the battery, make sure it’s fused from the positive wire (30 amps).
By now the enclosure should be set if you used the JB Weld, removed the black tape used to cover the holes in the amplifier bracket and put the white filler back into the enclosure. Connect the subwoofer to the black and white wires and re-install the subwoofer. Re-install the enclosure and enjoy your tunes.
Enclosure installation:
The overhead unit upgrade is going to have to be put on the side for a bit.
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Mod 2.0:
http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-1000…ml#post1977525
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Mod 1.0:
