Good vendor for lighted led whips and small light bars? Any discounts and fast shipping?

Thanks
Dave

Here is some info on relocating the VR to the front of the radiator for those DIY kinda guys….. I’m no engineer, so please bear with me.

After doing some research, I have found that the stator wires (coming from the stator) are 12g wires. For the harness, I wanted to increase the gauge size for both the stator wires and the DC return wires (to minimize voltage drop), as the length is going to be approximately 10′ (for the XP4). One of our vendors, Hawk Engineering, apparently makes a relocation harness, so I asked him what gauge wire he uses on his stator harness, he responded "10 gauge". For the DC return wires, I chose to run 8g wire for the return back to the battery, as this VR is capable of supporting upwards of 40A.

So, here is what I’ve got:
The 3-wire stator plug is a Metripack 630 sealed terminal kit
This kit can be purchased at Cycle Terminal: Metri-Pack 280 – 630
Keep in mind, these connectors require a very pricey crimp tool for a "professional" installation. (Being more of a shadetree kind of mechanic, I am choosing to carefully crimp the terminals onto the wire, followed by a good soldering of each terminal. This has worked well in the past for me.) I will be running 10g wire for the stator wire portion of the harness.

Now for the DC return from under the hood, I plan on mounting a double 1/4" junction post. This way the OEM VR has a place to land the +/- wires without modification. This is the junction post I found on ebay:
7277025 Dual Post Mounting Kit 1 4 x 20 Red Black Posts with Boots | eBay

For the DC return from the above double junction post, I am running 8g wire back to a single 1/4" junction post located near the starter relay and from this junction post, I am inserting a 12g (or 3sq mm) fusible link between the new junction post and the battery terminal on the starter relay (the location where the original VR was landed). This fusible link will protect the 8g wire from a short circuit.
The ground return from under the hood, will go to the OEM ground lug terminal under the rear seat.
Junction Block Power Post 1 4" Red Positive | eBay

I am working on a couple different ways to get the VR mounted….we’ll see how that turns out……

Again, I’m no engineer and there may be other ways to go about this…..this is what I have arrived at to relocate my VR. I purchased the 8 and 10g wire locally, so my cost to make this complete harness will be in the neighborhood of $60.

Later, I will post up some pics of the installed components as I install them for easier reference.

If you have other Ideas that have worked or that can help other members….lets hear it!!

As always…..mod at your own risk!!!:ride:

I have a SSV Works 2 speaker radio/MP3 unit in my 900xp. My problem is that I can turn it on and it has power but i have no sound from the speakers…I’ve checked the fuses and they all were good…all input is greatly appreciated thanks!

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I just bought a curved 30-inch Troton light bar for my ’14 800 S 2-seater. I have a Polaris 1/2 windshield and lock and ride roof (which I don’t wanna cut) and I was looking to see how other people have mounted and wired theirs up. For mounts I’m looking at the Axia Alloy or the Trail Bright LED light bar mounting system. As far as wiring and switching is concerned, I don’t know what comes with the bar but I’d like to see how people run their wiring, tap power and mount the switch. I’ll likely run another light or two in the future in addition to adding a stereo so I’m interested/concerned about expandability…

Thanks in advance for thoughtful replies and help!

Is anyone drilling holes in the factory roll cage to hide led light bar wires? the hole would be small and look a lot cleaner than zip tyes. Let me know, that’s my plan on the front roll bars of a xp1000 4.

We just purchased and had installed a jl audio bluetooth system by Duner Tunes, it comes with 3 dials and 1 switch. We are having issues where we can connect the ipod touch to the bluetooth of the jl audio system. However, we can only operate the bluetooth with the ipod touch and not the dial on jl audio bluetooth system. Also, the blue light on right side of dial is solid yet there is a solid red light on left of dial. Also, the unit beeps when turned on? We have not seen this before and do not have an owners manual. Please can anyone help with this? Thank you, Kim

It seems to me that the user manual is useless. I’m looking to use the chartplotting function but now quite sure how to do that. Anyone know?

I have a RYCO street legal kit on my XP 4 1000. The 2-wire relay has gone bad. My local Oreilly and Auto Zone did not have any 2 prong electronic relays. I don’t want to order if I don’t have to. Has anyone else had to replace a relay? Do I have any other options?

I have a RYCO street legal kit on my XP 4 1000. The 2-wire relay has gone bad. My local Oreilly and Auto Zone did not have any 2 prong electronic relays. I don’t want to order if I don’t have to. Has anyone else had to replace a relay? Do I have any other options?

So I have an XP1K with the factory battery and and Odyssey secondary battery that runs all my accessories and is on a circuit breaker along with a True Power Battery Isolator.

It has been a few weeks since I had run it for any length of time. When I got in to start it up and take it for a quick spin I noticed that my dc charging was fluctuating betwenn 14 and 12.3 continuously. I got to looking and when it was at 14 the Blue light on my Isolator was off but when it went to 12.3 the blue light was on. So I am wondering is my factory Polaris battery getting ready to go out or is it my voltage regulator? Anyone got any wisdom on this to share?