I have set the website so you can buy them off the site now
Order now and it will ship Thursday or Friday
Polaris RZR XP 900, Polaris Ranger 800 – Polaris 1000 RZR Gates C12 CVT Belts
Thanks,
Todd
I have set the website so you can buy them off the site now
Order now and it will ship Thursday or Friday
Polaris RZR XP 900, Polaris Ranger 800 – Polaris 1000 RZR Gates C12 CVT Belts
Thanks,
Todd
This is not about the need of a clutch kit or what it does, plenty of that already in existence.
This is about each kit and why.
08-09 RZR 800, just weights and primary spring no secondary spring nor helix.
Why? The stock secondary spring was determined to be good for tires up to 29" and the stock helix in that clutch was determined to be right for the vehicle. The 08-09 came with a EBS secondary and had a removable helix.
So Dalton does not sell you a spring and helix in this kit that you don’t need.
10-14 RZR 800 kits, basically the same answer but these vehicles do not have a removable helix and the stock secondary spring works good
The 10-14 800 Four seat, primary spring, secondary spring and adjustable weights. Why the secondary spring? Vehicle weight is heavier than two seater and it needs more belt grip plus needs to be held in lower gear longer.
11-14 RZR XP 900 Adjustable weights and primary spring, stock secondary spring good up to 28" tires and need stiffer one after. Stock helix is good in that model too unless you think it has too much engine braking and Hunterworks not Dalton has a fix for that.
2015 Non-EBS model 900 STD and S model, guess what the sales data says?
No kit needed on a stock vehicle Polaris got this one right, so unless you got bigger tires, elevation etc then don’t buy one.
Wow huh?
2015 EBS model, Polaris got every single component wrong. Line a EBS model up against a non-ebs model everything being the same and the non ebs model will outrun it every time.
Ranger 900 14-15 model
I really have some egg on my face on this one, bought a Ranger to test and play with the forth coming Dalton kit and in the end just two springs one for primary and one for secondary. Dalton said low is too low, high is too high in this machine and I will not sell a full a on kit for $300 that people do not need!!!
Wow again huh?
2014-2015 1000 RZR, same thing Polaris did not get one piece of this clutch calibrated correctly which was seen in the 14 model blowing belts, Polaris bandaided by changing the clutch cover and putting a much too hard of belt on plus changing the helix some.
Also the Dalton has bushings in the flyweights on the 1000 kits, dirt and dust will eat the weights up in the hole where the bolt goes through over a period of time. Polaris knows this as do Dalton but they made their bushing better.
Four seat 1000, gets it’s own kit, same weights and springs but different helix and set up. Why? Different load with the extra people.
These 1000 kits quickly became the most popular kit we sell with the XP 900 right behind it.
The 1000 kit was the most fully tested kit ever at Dalton and even won the Baja 500 race this year.
What sets the Dalton apart from them all is ease of set up, most kits can be trying at times and you have to remove the weights for any adjustment and you simply don’t have to with the Dalton.
Anyway, what is the whole point of this thread?
Dalton does not do cookie cutter kits, every kit is specific to that vehicle
Some gets a bare minimum kit, some get it all and some like the 900 RZR mentioned don’t need one at all then there is the Ranger 900 just needs springs.
This is why I sell Dalton, great kits, easy to set up and they just flat work. Dalton is just like me, we only sell what works!!!
They also give you a 30 day satisfaction guarantee on it. less than 5 have used that in the 8 years of selling Dalton kits at Hunterworks.
Nothing but positive reviews so far, sold lot for the Rangers and once again nothing but positive reviews.
If you have a the need for one, which is a slower rider with big tires such as a rock crawler, mud guy etc then you can’t beat it.
Click on the link below for more info
They are available for the 800 RZR as well just not on our site, need to call me to order them
Also, the 1000 unit has no release date at this minute.
Polaris RZR XP 900, Polaris Ranger 800 – Duraclutches
Todd
He had a mild engine kit and was able to work directly with Dale to get it set up.
What he was running before he was burning belts!!
End result, they won!!!
Way to go Wayne!!!
Way to go Dalton!!!
Todd
First off clutching is all centrifugal force pure and simple, a heavier flyweight acts on the movable sheave sooner and faster and yes it does give better acceleration but only for short distance. It also provides more belt grip down low too.
Take a five speed car, if you want to drag race you want to run through the gears fast you can get the best pull but imagine skipping 3rd and 4th gear going straight to 5th and what would happen?
This is what any kind of clutch set up does that advances the clutch at a fast rate on the bottom, no way to slow it down on the top. yes there are different weights out there that you can move the weight around on the flyweight but it has limited affect
The stock clutching in a 1000 rzr is great if you want to drag race but a properly clutched one will catch it very quickly and the stock one will never be able to keep up again.
So if you was a 1000 RZR owner who was interested in rock crawling or low speed riding, you could do the Dalton kit with the optional orange/green primary spring for a sooner engagement and more belt grip and even add more weight in the flyweights than the kit says, keep in mind the set ups are for over all improved performance.
Anything you do in one area is going to have an affect in another. More weight or any kind of weight that advances the belt fast will do great in low speed but suffer at mid to high speed. Why? Too heavy or designed with some physical attribute that makes it advance the belt fast and keeps rpm too low making the engine run in a area that produces less power and it advances the belt too fast then lugging occurs then more belt heat to go along with less than ideal performance mid to high speed.
The simple answer is, it is very hard to have your cake and eat it too. A slow driver, rock crawler or mud guy and duner simply needs two different set ups.
This is a bold statement, but there is NO one set up by anyone that will do both well. If they say it will, well then they are not being truthful.
What we do with the Dalton for the majority of the people is set it up for what most people want, overall improvement of performance and less belt usage. But you can surely set it up for exactly what area you spend your time at but it will have an affect in other areas when you do.
Think about it in terms of centrifugal force.
Think about this. Take a 1/2" nut and tie it on a string and a button and tie it on a string now the object is to get them to swing around flat which one takes the least effort? The heavy one. Now explain to me how you could make the nut fly out quickly then slow down mid way and slowly ease up to flat flying??
Can’t do it except by slowing down your arm (decrease in RPM). Using this simply explanation the best you can do to have it better in both is to use a weight on that string that is in between the nut and button. Then if you want less arm speed use the heavy nut, more arm speed use the button.
Hope this makes sense.
Todd
First off clutching is all centrifugal force pure and simple, a heavier flyweight acts on the movable sheave sooner and faster and yes it does give better acceleration but only for short distance. It also provides more belt grip down low too.
Take a five speed car, if you want to drag race you want to run through the gears fast you can get the best pull but imagine skipping 3rd and 4th gear going straight to 5th and what would happen?
This is what any kind of clutch set up does that advances the clutch at a fast rate on the bottom, no way to slow it down on the top. yes there are different weights out there that you can move the weight around on the flyweight but it has limited affect
The stock clutching in a 1000 rzr is great if you want to drag race but a properly clutched one will catch it very quickly and the stock one will never be able to keep up again.
So if you was a 1000 RZR owner who was interested in rock crawling or low speed riding, you could do the Dalton kit with the optional orange/green primary spring for a sooner engagement and more belt grip and even add more weight in the flyweights than the kit says, keep in mind the set ups are for over all improved performance.
Anything you do in one area is going to have an affect in another. More weight or any kind of weight that advances the belt fast will do great in low speed but suffer at mid to high speed. Why? Too heavy or designed with some physical attribute that makes it advance the belt fast and keeps rpm too low making the engine run in a area that produces less power and it advances the belt too fast then lugging occurs then more belt heat to go along with less than ideal performance mid to high speed.
The simple answer is, it is very hard to have your cake and eat it too. A slow driver, rock crawler or mud guy and duner simply needs two different set ups.
This is a bold statement, but there is NO one set up by anyone that will do both well. If they say it will, well then they are not being truthful.
What we do with the Dalton for the majority of the people is set it up for what most people want, overall improvement of performance and less belt usage. But you can surely set it up for exactly what area you spend your time at but it will have an affect in other areas when you do.
Think about it in terms of centrifugal force.
Think about this. Take a 1/2" nut and tie it on a string and a button and tie it on a string now the object is to get them to swing around flat which one takes the least effort? The heavy one. Now explain to me how you could make the nut fly out quickly then slow down mid way and slowly ease up to flat flying??
Can’t do it except by slowing down your arm (decrease in RPM). Using this simply explanation the best you can do to have it better in both is to use a weight on that string that is in between the nut and button. Then if you want less arm speed use the heavy nut, more arm speed use the button.
Hope this makes sense.
Todd
Hitting the rev limiter after a clutch kit install on a Polaris RZR is not uncommon. The most vehicle it happens too is the four seat 1000 RZR, with the 1000 RZR being the second most common then other RZR’s are way down the list on the occurance.
Clutch kits as a general rule increase engine RPM during shift phase, this is the very issue with the stock clutching you get lower engine rpm during shift phase especially with someone who changes tires but is that way in a bone stock vehicle. This means the clutch is shifting the belt out too fast and putting it in a lug losing peformance and making you go through more belts. A clutch kit puts rpm up there were we want it for better performance.
I use this example almost everyday. Say you have a four seater RZR 1000 and you ride in the dunes, you want shift speed up near 8500-8600 rpm, this does not leave you but 100-200 rpm to play with before you on the limiter. So if you have what I call a clutching mistake like say a flat spotted secondary roller etc that make RPM go up 200 RPM then you will hit the limiter. With stock clutching which may be say 600-800 rpm away from limiter during shift phase and you have the same 200 rpm clutching mistake it does not hit limiter because you are so far away from it. Does that mean stock clutching is better? No performance is off and belt use is higher.
Reason #1 in a four seater:
The clutch kit set ups are for four normal size people in a four seater so when you have four people in there the load is greater and you need lighter weights etc to get rpm up. If you only have two people in there, the load is less and the rpm is higher so the set ups may need to be adjusted with a different rivet, more set screws or a change in helix angle. You might need to call me on this but think more screws or heavier tip rivet. Also, if you ride four people in it most of the time, you really need to set it up with four people in it.
Reasons for both vehicles 1000 and 1000 four seat:
As a general rule the set ups in the kit are spot on with the normal add or take away a set screw in the weight, this is covered in the pre-installation article
Tire size, if you are using say a Skat Trak sand tire and maybe smaller than stock, the kit does not account for that, that is out of the normal, can it be changed for that? Sure but the set ups are not for a extremely light tire like that. I hear only 17lbs where the norm is mid 30’s. You may need to call me on something like this with your kit and we can adjust away from the set ups for it.
The most common issue with hitting the limiter after a clutch kit install is a physical issue with one or both clutches. People call and say I don’t have anything weird about my vehicle but I am hitting the limiter now. The set ups are not off that much. The most common reason is the primary nut has backed off causing the primary to limit travel, the second is a flat spotted secondary roller.
Again as mentioned earlier, you may not know you have a issue with the stock clutching because the shift phase rpm is so far away from the limiter that the clutch issue does not show up but it is there. Have had several people argue with me. " My vehicle only has 80 miles on it" Guess what? twice with less than 80 miles on them the spider nut backed off. Very common!!!
So to make it simple, if you are hitting the limiter either you have only two people in your four seater, you have a spider nut backing off, a secondary roller getting flat etc.
If you want to know what parts I am talking about or what to look for in the primary, watch our video
"I have a 2015 xp 4 1000. About 400 miles and already went thru 2 OEM belts. I trail ride in sand. Pretty fast trail rides. "
What is my point here? This guy is totally stock, stock 15 belt, stock clutching etc.
Will you blow a aftermarket belt? yes, will you still do it after a clutch kit? yes
Should it be less often? yes
I rebuilt some stock clutches yesterday that just eat belts left and right, if you saw them you would know why.
Please don’t be closed minded if you have a aftermarket belt like the Gates C12 we sell or good clutch kit like the Dalton like we sell and things don’t go perfect for you. Your driving style, where you ride and whether you have dirty or worn clutch parts is the main reason of belt failure not the kit or belt.
There is waaaaay more people get on forums stating troubles they have after installing aftermarket stuff than when just stock. For some reason having problems with stock belts and clutching is acceptable.
The statement just go OEM belt simply is not true either. This one email is just one of a million I have received or talked on the phone about.
If you are going through a OEM belt or a Gates C12 belt then there is a reason and the least of which is the belt itself.
Help me help you!!!
Todd
I made three videos
A basic cleaning of a primary you can do on the vehicle or with just a primary puller
A 800/570 primary explanation and name of the primary parts
A 900/1000 primary explanation and name of the primary parts
The link below goes to the page on our site where all three videos are linked from
Polaris RZR XP 900, Polaris Ranger 800 – Clean and Clutch Parts Videos
Thanks,
Todd
