I have not really thought about it much until yesterday when I was talking with Gates for a while.
Two things you should never do to any brand belt, bend it backwards too much, you will damage it, they are not designed to be bent backwards, not brand specific all brands
Wire Tying to a roll bar:
When doing this for storage for a trail ride as a spare, wire tie it with two wire ties closer to the center leaving the ends in larger loops so you do not bend the ends down too tight, that will make the belt split, once again not brand specific, none are designed to be pinched that tight on the ends.
During a hour long call today with Gates, I was discussing observations customers had measuring widths on belts and like me, we are all measuring the width of the top of the belt side to side at the top cogs.
That is not the way to measure it and the truth is, we can’t really measure it correctly
I was asking about the widths of the 1000 belt and the oem and variances on the widths.
He said, you can’t measure like that, you have to measure the width at the cord and we do it with a very complicated laser measuring device and we are right on the money
The width at the cogs plays no bearing and will soon be worn away to the same spec.
So if you get a couple belts that the top cog width varies a few thousandths then don’t be alarmed, run it.
While on measuring, you can’t measure the outside circumference either with a tape measure and be remotely accurate.
To properly measure a belt in length with what we have available, you must mark the belt, lay on a table, mark table in same spot, then roll the belt out, when the mark on the belt hits the table again, mark the table and measure between the marks on the table
Lastly, the last four digits of a gates part number is it’s length Example: 21C4140 is 41.40" long
During a hour long call today with Gates, I was discussing observations customers had measuring widths on belts and like me, we are all measuring the width of the top of the belt side to side at the top cogs.
That is not the way to measure it and the truth is, we can’t really measure it correctly
I was asking about the widths of the 1000 belt and the oem and variances on the widths.
He said, you can’t measure like that, you have to measure the width at the cord and we do it with a very complicated laser measuring device and we are right on the money
The width at the cogs plays no bearing and will soon be worn away to the same spec.
So if you get a couple belts that the top cog width varies a few thousandths then don’t be alarmed, run it.
While on measuring, you can’t measure the outside circumference either with a tape measure and be remotely accurate.
To properly measure a belt in length with what we have available, you must mark the belt, lay on a table, mark table in same spot, then roll the belt out, when the mark on the belt hits the table again, mark the table and measure between the marks on the table
Lastly, the last four digits of a gates part number is it’s length Example: 21C4140 is 41.40" long
Anyone ordering a belt for a 2015 or 2016 model RZR 900 of any model will no longer be receiving the 21C4140, you will now receive a 23C4140 which is the same belt as the Ranger 900
Why? Same length and the 23C is 1 mm wider to aid in the issue some might be having with slipping
Was on the phone nearly a hour with Gates this AM discussing this, engineering looked into it twice and has said use the 21C but after todays discussion we are using the 23C at Hunterworks
You will NOT find this on any application data, this is what we do, we investigate, test etc to get you the latest information and best fitment available.
Gates is going to visit this model a third time, only time will tell if it changes again from the 23C
If you just bought a 21C no reason not to run it, only a minor number of people are having issues.
Anyone ordering a belt for a 2015 or 2016 model RZR 900 of any model will no longer be receiving the 21C4140, you will now receive a 23C4140 which is the same belt as the Ranger 900
Why? Same length and the 23C is 1 mm wider to aid in the issue some might be having with slipping
Was on the phone nearly a hour with Gates this AM discussing this, engineering looked into it twice and has said use the 21C but after todays discussion we are using the 23C at Hunterworks
You will NOT find this on any application data, this is what we do, we investigate, test etc to get you the latest information and best fitment available.
Gates is going to visit this model a third time, only time will tell if it changes again from the 23C
If you just bought a 21C no reason not to run it, only a minor number of people are having issues.
Just got word today that the new Gates Turbo 1000 and four seat 1000 Turbo belt is in stock at Gates, I ordered some today
They are on our site now, you can order off the site and this would be a pre-order until they get here. If you order it off the site, for now don’t order anything else on the same order since it is a pre-order for about a week and would hold up the rest of your order.
The Turbo belt is $115 shipped, not the $82 like the rest, why?
More or less, a lot more belt material, it is nearly 1 1/2" wide like a snowmobile belt would be. So my cost went up for this one belt therefore we have to pass it on, but is still way less than the OEM at $199 retail
Just got word today that the new Gates Turbo 1000 and four seat 1000 Turbo belt is in stock at Gates, I ordered some today
They are on our site now, you can order off the site and this would be a pre-order until they get here. If you order it off the site, for now don’t order anything else on the same order since it is a pre-order for about a week and would hold up the rest of your order.
The Turbo belt is $115 shipped, not the $82 like the rest, why?
More or less, a lot more belt material, it is nearly 1 1/2" wide like a snowmobile belt would be. So my cost went up for this one belt therefore we have to pass it on, but is still way less than the OEM at $199 retail
stock motor 2008 rzr as stock is proven the most durable for me…36in bkt’s and 30% gear reduction boxes..in low it goes 3800 to 4000 to get moving…engages smooth ,no slipping and no belt dust…to drive on a trail it takes 3800 to 4000 to run 5 to 10mph…in the mud its a little lazy feeling till rpms go 4800ish and then its almost to much and charges through the hole spinning …best way is to creep thru the mud /deep water barely turning the tires …any thoughts on this?
dont know if it has a clutch kit or not but does have a new belt I just put on.
stock motor 2008 rzr as stock is proven the most durable for me…36in bkt’s and 30% gear reduction boxes..in low it goes 3800 to 4000 to get moving…engages smooth ,no slipping and no belt dust…to drive on a trail it takes 3800 to 4000 to run 5 to 10mph…in the mud its a little lazy feeling till rpms go 4800ish and then its almost to much and charges through the hole spinning …best way is to creep thru the mud /deep water barely turning the tires …any thoughts on this?
dont know if it has a clutch kit or not but does have a new belt I just put on.
With all the secondary roller issues especially with the XP 1000 we have what we think will be the best secondary roller available.
The ones we have been having and still got a few sets from Team are still great rollers, better than the stock ones but due to the high heat and dirt still flat spot.
So enter in our new rollers, these Hunterworks rollers not bought elsewhere
Engineered by a racing team out of California that deal in exotic plastics that I work with on other projects.
The new material has been tested to 400 degrees with no deformation!!
Self Lubricating
5X time slicker than Teflon
Tighter tolerances on the shaft due to being CNC machined versus being inject molded.
Weights don’t wobble on the shaft like the stock weights.
Hope we got this problem solved and or for sure less often.
Now the good news, still cost the same $60 for a set of four and two new roll pins which is still half the cost of the Polaris rollers
