I finally got to check out a 16 in person yesterday at my nearest dealer. Every since getting green on my 660 way back in 03 I regretted not getting camo. Well now tho I’m really digging the SE model carbon metallic, with camo a close second.
The dealer has a camo eps in stock and shot me a reasonable first price without me bartering on any of 9600. 9660 out the door(I’m farm exempt no taxes).
I could bring this unit home as early as tomorrow but a big part of me is really wanting to see a carbon metallic in person before I make a decision. In pics I really think it’s the sharpest color. I do worry about the painted plastics compared to the camo which seems to hold up well and not show scuffs and scratches. I’ve owned my current Grizz since dec 03, so when I get smthing I keep it a while, so I tend to overthink every aspect of it before I make the purchase.
The dealer did say he could do a dealer search for a SE model for me and get it instead of having to wait on ordering one straight from Yamaha. I called like 8 dealers today and none had any se models and most didn’t even have a 16 at all! I think either choice I would be pretty happy with, just kinda thinking if I don’t get carbon metallic the first time I see one on the trails I’ll be like man I should have gotten that. On the other hand if I do and the paint starts looking shabby pretty fast I’ll be wishing I had camo. Lol is anyone else this nuts?
I recently bought another grizzly, and its an 05 660. Bike is a beater. I got it from the original buyer with a title. But he said it was knocking. upon further inspection it is def a top end peck, not a rod knock. so gotta pull the head, and gonna go ahead and do a piston and rings in it. This bike was used on a farm. it has 3000 miles on it, and looks rough. not maintained very well. What are some other things I may need to look at. Other then fluid changes, are there any common problems to keep an eye out for?
Ive been about 5 months into looking for a used atv. I started looking into anything I could get my hands on for a good price but have now decided i dont want anything but a grizzly. My dad has an older 98 600 grizz that has given him minimal problems.
I dont want to spend much more than $5500 but i want EPS. Im not in a big rush and can wait for a good deal but I am eager to get one because the hunts are going on right now.
Ive found an 07 700 with new tires and an exhaust tip for $5500 with 2k miles and a plow and i think i can talk him down.
I have also found an 08 700 that I have talked down to $4000 that has 3900 miles.
I am worried on the 08 because its got higher miles. Im going to look at the 2 next weekend and am looking for some input. Does the 07 look like a good deal if all checks out? Both have EPS. Are there any other years you would much rather have or am I safe with an 07 or 08 Thanks everyone and I hope to become a frequent member of the site!
Read the manual and have a few questions if someone can help.
1.) Can one make some assumptions that if you can turn the key on, hit the start button, and the starter engages that the following items must be functioning and are not causing my no spark issue? Shut-Off button, neutral safety switch, & Rear brake switch? Also assume that it is not the master fuse (as with this removed I lose all power).
2.) Tested the stator with an ohm meter and both tests in the manual pass for the 2 pigtails tied to the stator. Also I believe one plug ties to spark and one to charging system and as of now I am only trying to troubleshoot no spark. My question here is there any type of cranking test? Or is continuity test really good enough to clear the stator?
3.) Following the manual and testing I think I am at the stage where it says replace the CDI. Since its a few hundred I’d like to be a little more sure. Other than making sure the CDI has a good ground (black wire) and the wire to the coil has continuity is there anything else I should be testing?
4.) When cranking I didn’t see anything in the manual on how to measure whats getting to the coil. Anyone have any tips or data on this?
Read the manual and have a few questions if someone can help.
1.) Can one make some assumptions that if you can turn the key on, hit the start button, and the starter engages that the following items must be functioning and are not causing my no spark issue? Shut-Off button, neutral safety switch, & Rear brake switch? Also assume that it is not the master fuse (as with this removed I lose all power).
2.) Tested the stator with an ohm meter and both tests in the manual pass for the 2 pigtails tied to the stator. Also I believe one plug ties to spark and one to charging system and as of now I am only trying to troubleshoot no spark. My question here is there any type of cranking test? Or is continuity test really good enough to clear the stator?
3.) Following the manual and testing I think I am at the stage where it says replace the CDI. Since its a few hundred I’d like to be a little more sure. Other than making sure the CDI has a good ground (black wire) and the wire to the coil has continuity is there anything else I should be testing?
4.) When cranking I didn’t see anything in the manual on how to measure whats getting to the coil. Anyone have any tips or data on this?
I wonder how many of us think about weight effects of our mods to our Grizzly performance, even clutching. I know elkas consider additional weight other than riders.
While not a fair comparison, comparing a 09 Grizzly 700 to the 2015 Grizzly 700, differrent a-arms and what else I am not sure, but still, the totally stock 700 has almost a sports quad feel.
My 09 was set up for mudding, big tires, clutching, skid plates, big bumpers, front and back for pushing, rock sliders, big storage box that was always full of stuff. As I add stuff to this new Grizz, I might keep a log of additional weight per item. Setting this one up for technical no mud.
Any thoughts? Anybody else actively think about weight when adding mods?
I wonder how many of us think about weight effects of our mods to our Grizzly performance, even clutching. I know elkas consider additional weight other than riders.
While not a fair comparison, comparing a 09 Grizzly 700 to the 2015 Grizzly 700, differrent a-arms and what else I am not sure, but still, the totally stock 700 has almost a sports quad feel.
My 09 was set up for mudding, big tires, clutching, skid plates, big bumpers, front and back for pushing, rock sliders, big storage box that was always full of stuff. As I add stuff to this new Grizz, I might keep a log of additional weight per item. Setting this one up for technical no mud.
Any thoughts? Anybody else actively think about weight when adding mods?
So I’ve searched and You Tubed a lot, but still need some info/advise on my ground clearance delemma.
I have a ’14 700 with Slingshot tires (26’s) and ss212 wheels. My stock suspension is set at 2nd position from top for travel.
I’m 6.3" 260 lbs, and when I’m riding solo don’t have issues with bottoming out or scraping the belly. Granted, I am seriously considering Elka Satge 3’s for better cornering and out right suspension gains, but I don’t think they will offer much as far as bottoming out when I’m riding two up with the wifey.
As it sits now, I have to really navigate and consider corner speed when riding two up. I often bottom out on some soft woops, and will graze the back skid plate over some not so very big sized rocks…and that is after slowing to a crawl
I’ve considered a lift kit, but but have read that lift kits will alter the angle of my axels too much and /or put exxessive strain on my cv joints. Have also been told that even the best shocks (ie Elkas), won’t help with ground clearance very much at all.
Are bigger tires my only real option to get a few more inches of the clearance that I need? Which ones are best for trail riding, and whats the max size to go with that won’t involve clutching or axel wear? Has anyone here put on bigger tires and a lift kit that hasn’t hurt or strained the axels/joints, or have had good experiences with each?
I’m not a crazy mud guy, but more trails and easy flowin stuff is what I like.
So I’ve searched and You Tubed a lot, but still need some info/advise on my ground clearance delemma.
I have a ’14 700 with Slingshot tires (26’s) and ss212 wheels. My stock suspension is set at 2nd position from top for travel.
I’m 6.3" 260 lbs, and when I’m riding solo don’t have issues with bottoming out or scraping the belly. Granted, I am seriously considering Elka Satge 3’s for better cornering and out right suspension gains, but I don’t think they will offer much as far as bottoming out when I’m riding two up with the wifey.
As it sits now, I have to really navigate and consider corner speed when riding two up. I often bottom out on some soft woops, and will graze the back skid plate over some not so very big sized rocks…and that is after slowing to a crawl
I’ve considered a lift kit, but but have read that lift kits will alter the angle of my axels too much and /or put exxessive strain on my cv joints. Have also been told that even the best shocks (ie Elkas), won’t help with ground clearance very much at all.
Are bigger tires my only real option to get a few more inches of the clearance that I need? Which ones are best for trail riding, and whats the max size to go with that won’t involve clutching or axel wear? Has anyone here put on bigger tires and a lift kit that hasn’t hurt or strained the axels/joints, or have had good experiences with each?
I’m not a crazy mud guy, but more trails and easy flowin stuff is what I like.
