Category Archives: General Chit Chat

Shortening and crimping some big a## wires on a winch install

Putting in a SW Terra 35 and I’ve decided the crimp I’m looking at here isn’t something I can reproduce so I need to figure out who to take this wire to get the end put back on after I get it shortened to where I need it. Never having delt with wires this big I have no idea who I could go to just locally to get this done. What kind of (electrical?) business would deal with stuff like this?

.

Adios fellas

Sorry boys & girls but this spam thing has got me .
7 out of 19 topics are fit for the wastebasket .
Begged for the staff to do something about this but it has fallen on deaf ears .
Take care folks .:thumbsmilie:

new 30×40 three door garage with loft

what I’ve been doing all summer. Retired guy and myself did concrete. Brother in law was here from Wyoming to help put it up. Thanks Dean!
started with this:

bye bye

area is all clay so down we went. 10" footing. 82" walls

flii it all back in with good gravel/ drainage

and it starts




Tryin to get this brake bleed thing straight

Long story short I had to disconnect my right front caliper to do some other work and now that it’s all back together I need to refill and bleed that brake line. First time doing this and to the best of my knowledge the only two ‘line ends’ I’ll need to work with are my right handlebar reservoir and the bleed valve on the caliper itself. Considering the caliper I took off are there any other parts on the bike besides these I need to be concerned about?

Now insofar as back bleeding vs. top down bleeding goes…I understand that since bubbles rise, only doing a top down bleed leaves open the possibility of leaving some bubbles in the vertical brake line. But since the bleed valve on the caliper is an inch or more above where the banjo bolt brake fluid lines comes in (on my bike anyway) you would have to do at least some top down bleeding to make sure all the bubbles escape from the caliper out the higher positioned bleed valve. Together these two ideas imply that it might be best to do both some top down and bottom up bleeding. Any thoughts?

Anybody have a somewhat educated idea of how quickly air bubbles rise in the vertical line between the caliper banjo bolt and the handle? If they rise slowly enough seems like it would be possible to bleed the whole thing by doing only a top down.

How would you load these 2 atvs on my utility trailer?

So went from having a kodiak 450 for me and a quadrunner 250 for the wife. Both fit on my 6×10 utility trailer with hers sideways on front. Rode great that way. But now we have both upgraded quads.

She has an 09 Arctic Cat mudpro 700 and I have my 15 xmr800. So I sold my 6×10 trailer with the kodiak. And went and got a 7 ft x 16ft tandem axle utlity trailer. With 3500 lb axles.

We loaded them up today just to check the fit. Her mudpro is 7 ft 3in long and side by side with my xmr they look the same but my xmr looks almost a fokt longer on the trailer. I was also thinking my xmr was about 600 lbs and hers was 550lbs. But after loading them up with mine up front and hers over the trailer axles. It looked tongue heavy. I was like wth? And my helper bags have 18 psi in them on the truck. So research showed me the xmr is about 960 pounds wet (I was blown away by this) and the mud pro might be 840 lbs wet (shocked by this as well). Trailer is 1500 lbs.

I feel dumb asking cause I drive a truck for a living but I’m not sure if I should put the xmr on the trailer axles and the mud pro on the tongue? Or load it like the pic?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150820_194813.jpg (792.0 KB)
File Type: jpg 20150820_194824.jpg (809.1 KB)