Yesterday i was plowing with my 2010 700 Grizzly . i tried to punch through a snowbank to plow from the other side , i got almost through the snowbank and got hung up . when i got stuck i heard a loud clunking noise. I was sure i had blown a CV joint and had an axle flopping around under the front end . Winched it out and had a look everything looked ok . Plowed snow for a few hours after , everything seemed fine. Any body have any ideas what the noise could have been ?
DEF Fluid
I bought a 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 diesel this summer and this is my first winter using DEF fluid. It seems to be burning throught the DEF a little faster now that its cold (20-40 degrees) than during the summer/fall. Is this common?
03 rancher 350 4×4 project
Well found a deal on a nice 03 rancher. Decided to pic it up and work on over the winter. What I know it needs pull start fixed, new rear plastics, brakes all around, a battery and a carb cleaning. The front wheel has a lot of play up and down left and right. So I’m guessing wheel bearings as well.
So far I have the recoil pull start off and most of the rear plastics. New pull start is on its way. Something internally in it works when it’s off but as soon as I put it back on doesn’t seem to want to recoil or turn the gear.
Here’s the before I got into taking it apart
oil change… oil screen in the case?
so with the weather here in NE Ohio I decided to change all my fluids before putting the plow on and was reading through the manual and noticed that is states to clean the oil screen behind the right side engine case. I never knew it was there, I always figured if I was going to pull the engine apart it’d be because I needed to rebuild the top end or something. has anyone done this? how dirty was it? is it really that necessary to do annually?
oil change… oil screen in the case?
so with the weather here in NE Ohio I decided to change all my fluids before putting the plow on and was reading through the manual and noticed that is states to clean the oil screen behind the right side engine case. I never knew it was there, I always figured if I was going to pull the engine apart it’d be because I needed to rebuild the top end or something. has anyone done this? how dirty was it? is it really that necessary to do annually?
Hello new 2016 570 owner here
Just purchased my first atv and could not be more excited! Unfortunately, can’t use it until Christmas, which has been VERY difficult so far. What really sucks too is that I have a brand new 60" Warn Provantage sitting in the garage too, but my winch is on back order! O yea and we just got about 8" of snow the past couple days here in Wisconsin and had to resort to using a snowblower instead of my new toy. This site has been very helpful so far and can’t wait to add some more accessories to it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RJWC Bumper Corners
I am new to the forum but I thought this may help a few folks. I recently purchased a 2017 XMR 1000. I thought I’d do a few upgrades just to make it my own. I decided to purchase a few RJWC products. Duals, shifter, air box lid, and bumper corners. Just like all the RJWC items the build quality of the bumper corners is exceptional. The hardware, not so much. It comes with cheap, zinc plated bolts, nuts, and washers. It seems like these Items should be stainless. So I went to Lowes Hardware and picked up what I needed and looked good.
If you want to do the same you will need the following. All in stainless steel.
1/4-20X1" (4)
1/4-20X3/4" (4)
1/4 lock washers (8)
1/4 flat washers (24)
1/4-20 acorn nuts (8)
The top bolt needs to be the 1" length. Bottom should be 3/4" length. You will have to adjust the number of washers you use on the top bolt to accommodate the acorn nut. Seems like it took 2-3 washers per top bolt. I placed them on the inside of the bumper corner so that all the hardware you could see looked identical on all the bolts all the way around the bike.
The rest is straight forward.
There is a pic of one installed with the included hardware, new stainless steel hardware, and of the finished install.
RJWC Bumper Corners
I am new to the forum but I thought this may help a few folks. I recently purchased a 2017 XMR 1000. I thought I’d do a few upgrades just to make it my own. I decided to purchase a few RJWC products. Duals, shifter, air box lid, and bumper corners. Just like all the RJWC items the build quality of the bumper corners is exceptional. The hardware, not so much. It comes with cheap, zinc plated bolts, nuts, and washers. It seems like these Items should be stainless. So I went to Lowes Hardware and picked up what I needed and looked good.
If you want to do the same you will need the following. All in stainless steel.
1/4-20X1" (4)
1/4-20X3/4" (4)
1/4 lock washers (8)
1/4 flat washers (24)
1/4-20 acorn nuts (8)
The top bolt needs to be the 1" length. Bottom should be 3/4" length. You will have to adjust the number of washers you use on the top bolt to accommodate the acorn nut. Seems like it took 2-3 washers per top bolt. I placed them on the inside of the bumper corner so that all the hardware you could see looked identical on all the bolts all the way around the bike.
The rest is straight forward.
There is a pic of one installed with the included hardware, new stainless steel hardware, and of the finished install.
Polaris Magnum 2000 not starting
Hi all
I am having problems with starting my quad, it’s a magnum 2000 model.
I bought a brand new battery, bike started and ran fine for a couple of days and then the battery was left completely dead and the bike stopped starting.
I took the battery back and had it tested, it was working fine. So I fully charged the battery again and put in on the bike, the bike wouldn’t even start with the newly charged battery. I could hear the solenoid tick once, but that’s all that happens.
I used a jump start on the bike, the bike would start.
I did the following tests:
Checked the battery voltage when the bike was running, I got 13.5v
I checked the voltage at the solenoid closest to the battery side, I get the same reading as the battery, around 12.5v
I checked the solenoid on the stator side, when the ignition is on, I get 0 volts
I checked the cable coming out of the stator, then the ignition is on, I get 0 volts.
Can someone help me figure out what the problem is?
Is it my solenoid or stator that’s causing this?
Polaris Magnum 2000 not starting
Hi all
I am having problems with starting my quad, it’s a magnum 2000 model.
I bought a brand new battery, bike started and ran fine for a couple of days and then the battery was left completely dead and the bike stopped starting.
I took the battery back and had it tested, it was working fine. So I fully charged the battery again and put in on the bike, the bike wouldn’t even start with the newly charged battery. I could hear the solenoid tick once, but that’s all that happens.
I used a jump start on the bike, the bike would start.
I did the following tests:
Checked the battery voltage when the bike was running, I got 13.5v
I checked the voltage at the solenoid closest to the battery side, I get the same reading as the battery, around 12.5v
I checked the solenoid on the stator side, when the ignition is on, I get 0 volts
I checked the cable coming out of the stator, then the ignition is on, I get 0 volts.
Can someone help me figure out what the problem is?
Is it my solenoid or stator that’s causing this?
