Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster. Hoping someone can help me out.
I have a 2013 XP with power steering that had about 2" of play at the handlebars. This past weekend a friend and I broke the bike down and replaced the lower steering stem post with the new designed post # 2205364.
This removed most of the play at the handlebars but after reassembling everything and testing it with the key off there is still about a 1/2 inch of play left. While inspecting it by moving the handlebar back and forth it seems like the play is inside the EPS unit. Is this possible? I read somewhere the shaft is solid through the EPS but not sure.
Or did we leave something else loose and I’m mis-diagnosing the problem? Does anyone else still have some play after replacing the lower stem post?
We typically ride fast on our WV trips so it would sure be nice to have the steering be tight for once.
My Rancher AT will not shift gears, the LCD display shows a solid bar, no flashing long or short bursts.
Once in gear, it will not shift back to neutral, if I roll the quad back and forth say 10 feet each way, it will shift back into neutral. Once in neutral it will start, if I put it in reverse the "R" will display, but when shifting into drive, the solid bar appears & will not shift.
I did replace the angle sensor and o-ring (but have a question).
The angle sensor has a rotating boss, what position should that be in to install it properly? Maybe that is the problem.
I have not had the quad in water, or sitting out in the rain, no crashes or rollovers.
Could it be the shift motor or did I install the angle sensor incorrectly?
My Rancher AT will not shift gears, the LCD display shows a solid bar, no flashing long or short bursts.
Once in gear, it will not shift back to neutral, if I roll the quad back and forth say 10 feet each way, it will shift back into neutral. Once in neutral it will start, if I put it in reverse the "R" will display, but when shifting into drive, the solid bar appears & will not shift.
I did replace the angle sensor and o-ring (but have a question).
The angle sensor has a rotating boss, what position should that be in to install it properly? Maybe that is the problem.
I have not had the quad in water, or sitting out in the rain, no crashes or rollovers.
Could it be the shift motor or did I install the angle sensor incorrectly?
I have an 87 TRX350 which has 4/110 hubs. I have a set of 4/137 wheels I am looking to put on the 350. I can find 4/137 to 4/110 adapters all day long but can’t find the 4/110 to 4/137 adapters I need. Can anybody point me in the right direction here?
I have an 87 TRX350 which has 4/110 hubs. I have a set of 4/137 wheels I am looking to put on the 350. I can find 4/137 to 4/110 adapters all day long but can’t find the 4/110 to 4/137 adapters I need. Can anybody point me in the right direction here?
WTH? When I purchased my 2012 Outlander Max 800 STD I was aware that the main concern was excessive heat …. however I never imagined it would melt my fuel tank. This didn’t happen overnight, I now have 5300 miles on it and this past weekend I noticed a fuel leak, took the tank out and yes it was melted and was leaking in two different places.
While examining the heat damage I noticed the CVT exhaust elbow had melted also, I looked up the parts and it states they ARE NOT AVAILABLE!!! How can that be? Called the dealership, and they didn’t know why that would be either.
It’s time for dealers to get reasonable! I called mine to get an ignition switch…$80!! For a little ignition switch. I simply will not pay ridiculous prices just because it’s the dealer. I would pay some more but…$80!! Uh no.
It’s time for dealers to get reasonable! I called mine to get an ignition switch…$80!! For a little ignition switch. I simply will not pay ridiculous prices just because it’s the dealer. I would pay some more but…$80!! Uh no.
It’s time for dealers to get reasonable! I called mine to get an ignition switch…$80!! For a little ignition switch. I simply will not pay ridiculous prices just because it’s the dealer. I would pay some more but…$80!! Uh no.
This is my tandem dual 34 foot gooseneck trailer with a 20 foot camper permanently mounted. It has a 6 foot spread on the axles to reduce weight on the pin. I set it up for dry camping with a generator and a second fresh water tank. I removed the tongue and axles from the camper and built a subframe to support the camper as it would be it it were on the ground. I used the subframe to lift it by leaving the frame beams extra long on all 4 corners. Once it was on the flatbed I cut them off and welded it. It am not done with it yet. I want to add additional black water storage and skirt the bottom of the camper to give it a cleaner look. Here some pics of the build.
