Just got a 600 and finally got it running. Next problem is the machine won’t shift into park or high and it’s stuck in 4wd. Shifts into R, N, and L. Seems like binding. I believe this is a common problem. Any help?

Looking for a way to mount a "gun rack" for shotguns, shovels, etc..

Is anyone looking at the:
Sportsman 570/450 Tough Rack Front
&
Sportsman® 570/450 Farm & Ranch Bumper-Front

Says they are out in September of 2016?

Looks like it would be much better than using a rack extender, as it is closer to the rider.

Thoughts?

Polaris sure is proud of this stuff.

I just bought some crap Eastlake axles and I know they are going to break soon so I’m looking for some good used ones.

Thanks!

As I cruise through the forums reading about the various issues on the XP and 570s platforms it has occurred to me that I never have read about any of the following issues on a XP Touring machine:

1. Broken/cracked Frame
2. Cracked Aarm mounts
3. Heat issues with exhaust
4. Front wheel falling off
5. Seat not fitting
6. Bad ball joints
7. Backing up without throttle
8. Bushings
9. Overheating
10. Broken/cracked aarms

I can’t help but wonder if this is because these machines are not used as hard because they typically haul a man and woman in the trail cruising mode. Perhaps it is because they just don’t sell as many, or maybe they are built a little stronger to support 2 riders.

I am sure the engine specific issues like throwing a timing key on the 850s and 550 valve head problems etc exist regardless of what chassis they are put into. The 570 touring seem to exhibit the same issues as the rest of the 570 series and threads abound regarding those.

So, if you have a XP touring machine, please reply to this thread good or bad about how the machine has been and the miles on it and year of manufacture.

Thanks!

Hello everyone. I am fairly new to posting here but been reading for years and getting great help from peoples posts here.

I am having issues with my son’s 1999 25th anniversary TRX90. Its an auto trans (no shifter) with electric start. The bike starts and runs great motor wise. The issue I am coming across is that when he rides it there is a loud clacking sound coming from it. After closer inspection the sound is coming from the front sprocket area. But can’t tell which side of the bike it being produced on.

So I went and found a service manual for the bike but it doesn’t have the model we have. No mention of the automatic, only the manual shift bike is in the manual. So I went ahead and pulled the clutch cover off and was able to move the clutch back and forth to find the spot that is creating the noise. Now the bad news is that its def somewhere in the gearing inside the transmission. I made a video of me moving the clutch and reproducing the sounds.

https://youtu.be/eLlD-A9UpOg

Any help with pointing me in the right direction would be awesome. I rather not take this to the shop. I like to work on these things myself so any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I had some carb and dirty tank issues, but got them all cleaned out and it runs great. However, when backing up at slow to moderate throttle, it’ fine. But, if I give a lot of throttle while backing, it cuts out. It sounds like its hitting a rev limiter. Is this a safety feature of some sort?
Thanks :shysmile:

I got my Yamaha grizzly 660 this past hunting season and have been pleased with the bike. Did everything I asked of it, but like I typically do when I buy anything used it was time for some maintenance.

I was only getting a top speed of 40mph and knew something wasn’t right. I was recently able to get into the CVT area to take a look at the primary/secondary sheaves. I found quite a bit of oil residue and even some fluff from the belt. The cage supporting the primary was even covered in grease, never seen this on any of the videos or pictures.

The grease in the primary was HARD and would not allow the sheave to completely open. I struggled a bit to just take the sheaves apart, hardened grease was preventing the cover and cam plate from coming off. From all the reading I did I realized I probably needed to change the oil seal on the wet clutch. If figured while I was in there might as well slug the wet clutch. I’m also going to change out the OEM sheave for one of JBS sheaves with OD weights.

Now, moving on to the secondary. All the original grease that was in the collar was gone. However, and here’s my QUESTION, there was grease in the inside of the secondary sheaves and on the backsides of the sheaves. I’ve cleaned up the sheaves in the pictures below, but you can still see a line on the faces. The bolts were basically covered in a thick grease/grime mix. Is there an oil seal in/around the secondary that needs to be replaced? As soon as I get this figured out I’m replacing the stock spring with an orange spring as recommended by JBS.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my Yamaha grizzly 660 this past hunting season and have been pleased with the bike. Did everything I asked of it, but like I typically do when I buy anything used it was time for some maintenance.

I was only getting a top speed of 40mph and knew something wasn’t right. I was recently able to get into the CVT area to take a look at the primary/secondary sheaves. I found quite a bit of oil residue and even some fluff from the belt. The cage supporting the primary was even covered in grease, never seen this on any of the videos or pictures.

The grease in the primary was HARD and would not allow the sheave to completely open. I struggled a bit to just take the sheaves apart, hardened grease was preventing the cover and cam plate from coming off. From all the reading I did I realized I probably needed to change the oil seal on the wet clutch. If figured while I was in there might as well slug the wet clutch. I’m also going to change out the OEM sheave for one of JBS sheaves with OD weights.

Now, moving on to the secondary. All the original grease that was in the collar was gone. However, and here’s my QUESTION, there was grease in the inside of the secondary sheaves and on the backsides of the sheaves. I’ve cleaned up the sheaves in the pictures below, but you can still see a line on the faces. The bolts were basically covered in a thick grease/grime mix. Is there an oil seal in/around the secondary that needs to be replaced? As soon as I get this figured out I’m replacing the stock spring with an orange spring as recommended by JBS.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered some spacers from Amazon for my machine and the bolt pattern is not exactly right. I’m trying to return them and the seller is wanting to know the centerbore and thickness of my wheels? Does anyone know where I can get this information? I ordered 4×137 spacers and the item description said it was supposed to fit my machine…. very frustrating.

If anyone can help me out with the centerbore and thickness of my 12" factory beadlock wheels on a 2014 Maverick Max 1000 XRS, I would greatly appreciate it.

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster. Hoping someone can help me out.
I have a 2013 XP with power steering that had about 2" of play at the handlebars. This past weekend a friend and I broke the bike down and replaced the lower steering stem post with the new designed post # 2205364.

This removed most of the play at the handlebars but after reassembling everything and testing it with the key off there is still about a 1/2 inch of play left. While inspecting it by moving the handlebar back and forth it seems like the play is inside the EPS unit. Is this possible? I read somewhere the shaft is solid through the EPS but not sure.

Or did we leave something else loose and I’m mis-diagnosing the problem? Does anyone else still have some play after replacing the lower stem post?

We typically ride fast on our WV trips so it would sure be nice to have the steering be tight for once.

Thanks!